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Routes in Petra Area

Bedouin Life T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Faisal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garrett and Res von Känel, 12 September 2006
Page Views: 178 total, 5/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jan 8, 2015
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Description

This is a great climb and in no way is it a part of the ancient ruins of Petra. It is well removed from those historic and National treasure areas which must be preserved. We were very sensitive to the area's importance in history and we discussed our plans with many local Sheiks and community leaders before we started our climb. It turned out to be classic and it is not to be missed if seeking a moderate climb up incredible landscape with continuously interesting movement.

Pitch #1: In the middle at the base of the West Face, scramble up an easy ramp left to where it steepens and face climb past about 6 bolts to a good ledge just above a tree and one bolt at the belay. 5.8 or 5c, 50m.

Pitch #2: Trend left up a steep crack and belay left of a huge tree. 5.9.

Pitch #3: Move left to a obvious black water streak on continued excellent stone and climb the streak eventually trending back to the right to a two bolt belay. 5.8.

Pitch #4: You are now at the "nostrils of the nose". Climb up the "Nose" past a bolt and then to the bridge between the eye brows passing another bolt surmounting an overhang to easier ground on the lower forehead. Piton and gear belay. Wall register tucked into a crevasse here. 5.9.

Pitch #5: Climb a short right facing dihedral which soon ends and continue up and right face climbing past two bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.7 or 5a, 50m.

Pitch #6: EZ low angle 3rd class to the top of The Face. Walk off to the left.

The walk off alone is spectacular from a landscape perspective!

Location

From Petra, travel to the Little Petra turn off and continue along the road for 6km (from the Beidah-Little Petra junction). Here their is a very large rock/dome formation that the locals call Sh'Karet M'Said. Many actually refer to it as "The Face", due to its obvious facial similarity of the West Face. Once you notice The Face (easily recognizable and hard to miss) driving out of Wadi Araba, you can drive your vehicle practically to the base of the wall. From where we car camped, it was a 40 second approach to the beginning of the climbing. A walk off is the best descent.

Protection

Some pitches are bolted due to a lack of natural protection, however, a single rack of Nuts and Camalots to #3 should be adequate to further protect the climb.
Quick Draws and slings for threads.

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