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Routes in Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände

Bunte Wand S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Danzer Ged. Weg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dynamo S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Never Stop Exploring S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piazriß S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sautanz S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Seitenstreifen S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stabeler Gedenkweg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: A. Link 1954
Page Views: 22 total, 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 7, 2015
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

This timecapsule has good rock and some enjoyable moves at a moderate grade, but there are far more enjoyable climbs at this grade in the area. The climb follows a large right-facing corner to a big ledge, and then uses a hang flake to climb a steep face, before traversing hard right and around a corner. Climbed thusly, the rope drag is insane, but offers a glimpse into the state of the art when this was climbed at V, A1 in 1956. Bring double ropes, or better, go straight up from the hanging flake along a “new” line of bolts to reach an anchor at the top of the cliff (probably in the 5.10 range).

Location

Begins up the big right-facing corner a few feet left of Kurze Acht (which has a plaque). The original line follows the path of least resistance in a long traverse across the upper face.

Protection

Many bolts. The addition of a direct finish makes the original line somewhat confusing and completely contrived.

Photos

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