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Routes in Sun Devil Wall
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Appendicitis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Astro Devil S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Heat Seeker S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Icarus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Persephone's Parole T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Seventh Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Suicidal Society S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sun Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sun Devil Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Suntoucher S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Aaron Miller |
| Page Views: | 1,413 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | A Miller on Jan 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
This is an extraordinary route on the Sun Devil Wall. It climbs the left skyline of the Sun Devil Tower through perfect rock, 350 feet above the canyon floor, on amazing features, and slightly overhanging rock. The approach pitch is also very good, though at 5.10 its barely a warmup for the climbing on Sundevil tower. Enjoy, it doesn't get much better than this.
Location
Start on the first pitch of either Sun Devil(5.9) or Astro Devil(11c) to get to Sun Devil Ledge. Head straight up a bolt line from the anchors into the first pitch of Seventh through 8 bolts, then head right to bolted anchor near the wide crack (5.10). Step right from the anchor, across the crack, and to the arete for full exposure climbing through 10 bolts to the anchor. 3 easy raps with a 70m rope to the ground. A 60m rope is fine but knot your ends because the bottom rap lets you off at a blocky ledge which is easy to step down to the ground from.
Photos
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