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El Nino

5.10d, Sport, TR, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Corte Madera > El Nino Wall

Description

Climb the arete at the bottom of the 3rd class scramble on the climber's left side of the formation. Start in a small dihedral with a small, broken finger crack on the left, then pull out of the dihedral (crux) up onto the arete proper. About 10-15 feet of 5.10 climbing up small crimps and textured slopes on the rounded arete, then the climbing eases significantly on the lower-angle, highly featured arete. There are open shuts at the top of the arete (at around 90 ft.) Stop here, or continue up the low-angle ledge around to climber's left w/ very easy climbing (5-nothing) to the top of the El Nino formation.

Location

Scramble down (3rd class) on climber's left side of the formation to the "corner" at the bottom. This is probably the best and fastest option. A double rope rap from anchors at the top will also get you down safely and allow a safe toproped climb. If you don't mind rapping off sketchy "open cold shuts" you can rap down with a single rope from the top to the intermediate ledge, and then rap again from your choice of several open cold shut anchors. This climb is right of Vortex and left of the trad dihedral climb High Rise.

Protection

This is a bolted climb. Open cold shuts at about 90ft. up, at the top of the arete. Sparsely protected but easy climbing climber's left once on the ledge will gain closed shut anchors at the top of the formation. A SINGLE ROPE RAP FROM THE TOP WILL NOT GET YOU TO THE BASE, it's about 150 ft. to rap from the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sean on El Nino
[Hide Photo] Sean on El Nino
On the easier arete above the cruxy lower section of the climb. Photo taken from the 3rd class scramble on climber's left of the El Nino formation
[Hide Photo] On the easier arete above the cruxy lower section of the climb. Photo taken from the 3rd class scramble on climber's left of the El Nino formation
The closed shuts on (climber's) left at the top of the formation.
[Hide Photo] The closed shuts on (climber's) left at the top of the formation.