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Routes in South Face

El Lado Oscuro de la Luna S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Asuntos Exteriores T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bernalina S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Filo Suroeste S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horizonte de Estrellas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Servicio Exterior S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via del Padre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 156 total, 4/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Jan 4, 2015
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

This is the 5th line of bolts up and right from where the main hiking trail meets the cliff face (this intersection is the location of the classic Bernalina). This route starts roughly 80 feet uphill of Bernalina and just above a small tree. The March 2013 guidebook lists two pitches and rates them 5.10b & 5.10b. The guidebook also shows the line to the right of where it is actually located (page 411 of The Mexican Rock Climbing Guide [March 2013]).

P1: Climb up and slightly right on brown, slabby rock past three bolts (5.9) to easier ground and an anchor in a small corner (5.9; 20m).
P2: Go up and slightly left on steepening rock past numerous bolts. As the cliff steepens, the bolts disappear, but it's possible to get reasonable protection with stoppers and small cams. Continue upward until just below a large, vegetated ledge. Belay from some awkwardly placed bolts (5.8; 50m).
P3: From the upper end of the large, vegetated ledge, climb a groove with some bolts (some bolts are reportedly missing) to the terrace below the final summit section of the peak.
P4: Follow the upper pitch of Bernalina or an adjacent route to the top (5.6; 50m).

Location

This is the 5th line of bolts from where the main hiking trail meets the cliff face. It starts roughly 80 feet uphill of Bernalina and just above a small tree.

Protection

While this route is generally sport bolted, the second pitch requires a smattering of stoppers and small cams to make it reasonably protected. As of 01-2015, there was no rappel anchor atop the second pitch, although you can easily traverse left and rappel the adjacent line with one 60m rope.

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