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Routes in South Face

El Lado Oscuro de la Luna S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Asuntos Exteriores T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bernalina S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Filo Suroeste S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horizonte de Estrellas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Servicio Exterior S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via del Padre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 455 total, 13/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Jan 4, 2015
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

From where the main hiking trail meets the south face of Pena de Bernal (the location of the classic Bernalina), this is the 4th line of bolts as you move uphill along the cliff face. It is roughly 60 feet uphill of Bernalina. The bolts have silver hangers.

The March 2013 guidebook lists the 20-25m pitch ratings as 5.10b, 5.10b, 5.8 & 5.8. If you have climbed frequently at places like the Black Velvet Wall at Red Rock in NV, you may downgrade the pitch ratings by 1-2 grades. Nonetheless, this is a very fun climb and well worth doing.

P1: Follow bolts to an anchor (5.8/9; 25-30m)
P2: Follow bolts slightly right into a black streak/groove and go up to an anchor (5.8/9; 20-25m)
P3: Follow bolts to an anchor on the left edge of a large, vegetated ledge (5.8/9; 20-25m)

NOTE: You can easily combine P1 & P2 or P2 & P3.

P4: Go up and slightly left on easier ground to reach the large terrace below the final summit formation.
P5: Follow Bernalina or an adjacent route to the summit (5.6; 50m)

Location

From where the main hiking trail meets the south face of Pena de Bernal, this is the 4th line of bolts as you move uphill along the cliff face. It is roughly 60 feet uphill of Bernalina. The bolts have silver hangers.

Protection

The route is generally sport bolted with anchors roughly every 20-25 meters. 10-14 quickdraws should allow you to combine some pitches and make the climb go quicker if you wish.

You can rappel at least the first three (3) 20-25m pitches (from at least as high as the large, vegetated ledge) with a single 60m rope.

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