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Routes in Standard Route Area

Penguin, The WI4
Standard Left Flow WI3
Standard Right WI3-4
Standard Route WI3+
Standard via "Left Cave" WI3+
Waterfall WI3
Type: Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 364 total, 10/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jan 4, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is simply the "variant" that climbs the left side of the main flow. In most years there is a rock "cave" on the left side of the flow, although this sometimes fills-in in really "thick" years.

In the early years ( i.e. 1970's, before the bolts were put into the cave on the right) this variant was considered pretty much the "standard" way to climb "Standard", as it offered a solid rock-belay.

P1 - Climb to the "cave" on the left. WI 3

P2 - Move out right (photo) and up the flow to the top, WI 3+ to 4- depending on conditions and where you go.

Location

Left side of the main flow.

Protection

Usual ice screws, rock gear to back up any old pins in the cave.

Photos

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