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Routes in Shortoff - Upper Wall

Blue Nude T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Footloose T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Going for Baroque T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paradigm Shift T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Reacharound T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stiff Upper Lip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Tom McMillan, Tom Howard, Jim Okel '81
Page Views: 429 total, 12/month
Shared By: nbrown on Jan 1, 2015
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Raptor Closure- Lifted Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The original start is a bit runout close to the ground and gets an R rating. However there is a better protected version just left in the obvious weakness. But for historical sake, I'll describe both variations here:

Climb up the obvious weakness to some ledges and move right to a .75 camelot slot (where an old pin used to be) above a prominent thin pointy flake. From here the route climbs up the steep somewhat chossy holds to merge back into the main crack system at a ledge. Don't blow it towards the end here.

Alternately, just climb the obvious weakness from bottom to top. There is a good but shallow #4 camelot just below the crux and the stopper, as well as a couple other options.

Continue up the overhanging corner crack feature to the top. This part is super cool.

Location

This is the most obvious feature in the middle of the wall. There is an old rusted bolt just left, and a newer one on a steep face just right (Reacharound).

Protection

Standard rack, maybe small wires for bottom and a big cam for top.

Photos

nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
The pin on the original start fell out in my hand today. However, I managed to excavate enough rock from that crack to open up a bomber .75 camelot slot instead. Regardless, it's probably better and safer to climb the left start anyway. Feb 8, 2015