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Routes in Shortoff - Upper Wall
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Blue Nude T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Footloose T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Going for Baroque T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Paradigm Shift T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Reacharound T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stiff Upper Lip T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 493 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Jan 1, 2015 |
| Admins: | Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
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Access Issue: 2021 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Raptor Closure- Lifted
Details
- *Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted for Linville Gorge, Shortoff Mountain, NC Wall and Big Lost Cove Cliffs. Effective July 2, 2018.**
For more information visit: fs.usda.gov/main/nfsnc/home
or Contact USFS Wildlife Biologist Sheryl Bryan. sbryan@fs.fed.us
Description
This is a fun steep new route that turned out much better than expected. However, it's not a good one for those uncomfortable with big overhangs.There's still a little loose rock but in general it's pretty clean and worth a go. Beware of the semi-sharp edge above the crux roof when toproping.
Locate the low bolt just left of a detached looking block. Climb the steep wall past the bolt, a fixed stopper, and more gear to a stance and rest up for the big roof above. Continue up obvious features to the roof and a nice #1 camelot pocket. Move right and clip the bolt at the lip. Pull the roof a little right of the bolt via big reach to the lip and good holds. Cutting the feet loose -- Cliffhanger style -- gets you to bigger jugs and easier climbing. Continue up to the top and build an anchor. Either lower and toprope (and retrieve anchor on the way out) or bring second up.
Locate the low bolt just left of a detached looking block. Climb the steep wall past the bolt, a fixed stopper, and more gear to a stance and rest up for the big roof above. Continue up obvious features to the roof and a nice #1 camelot pocket. Move right and clip the bolt at the lip. Pull the roof a little right of the bolt via big reach to the lip and good holds. Cutting the feet loose -- Cliffhanger style -- gets you to bigger jugs and easier climbing. Continue up to the top and build an anchor. Either lower and toprope (and retrieve anchor on the way out) or bring second up.
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