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Routes in Piz Ciavazes

"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abram Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Micheluzzi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buhl Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roberta83 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schubert (Friendhip Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Irma T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zeni Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Buhl, Streng, Platter, Felicetti 1949
Page Views: 118 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Dec 30, 2014
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

This is a variation of the Big Micheluzzi route that is much less travel, more difficult and unfortunately does not have as well maintained fixed gear (the pitons are a bit old and rusty and somewhat questionable in some of the crux traversing sections). If the fixed gear was replaced this would be a fantastic finish to the last half of the lower Piz Ciavezes wall. The route climbs the prominent right facinig dihedral the splits the center of the wall half way up.

Pitches 1-5 – Climb either Big Micheluzzi or Roberta 83 to the ledge system 4-5 pitches up. Traverse the ledge until the bolted belay at the start of the main Micheluzzi traverse (not the piton belay 20 feet back). Immediately up to the right is a shallow yellow dihedral which is the beginning of the route.
Pitch 6: Climb the yellow dihedral to a piton and set of slings in a pod. Step down right then climb up to a small (6 inch) roof with pitons underneath it. Go right (either above or below the roof) to a larger dihedral. Climb up this corner to the top and belay on the top of the pillar. 5.10b 40 meters.
Pitch 7: Look this pitch over very carefully as it is easy to get off route. Climb diagonally up and right across a yellow wall following the rare rusty piton. Aim towards a short left facing corner/crack that sits a bit to the right of the main dihedral above. Climb up the corner to a belay ledge that sits along the ramp right of the corner. 5.8 40 meters.
Pitch 8: Climb up the ramp into the corner and continue up to a stance below a difficult appearing overhanging corner. 5.7 40 meters
Pitch 9: Be cognizant of your gear and either run it out or back clean as you climb as this pitch will used medium cams for all 60 meters. Climb and stem up the overhanging corner crack into the sinker hand crack up the dihedral. Climb until the final overhanging crack at which point you can either climb it or step left onto a ledge (optional belay at 50 meters) then up to the terrace/walk off that splits the mountain face. 5.10b 60 meters.

Location

Park in the large dirt lot on the long straight stretch of road just below the base of Piz Ciavazes. This lot is immediately after a hairpin curve coming uphill. Walk across the road and up the trail to the base of the mountain to just beneath a large horizontal roof and slightly left of the parking area. There is graffiti on the wall saying “Roberta” next to a short curved ramp at the start of Roberta 83 and Micheluzzi 40 meters to the right. Climb either of these routes (see their descriptions) to get into the Buhl dihedral.
Descent: Walk off the terrace going left along the huge traverse all the way back to the second Sella Tower then back around the base of Piz Ciavazes.

Protection

Single rack of cams and wires. Double 0.4 to 3 cam unless you plan on back cleaning the final pitch. Many long slings, a few quick draws, threads.

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