Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Piz Ciavazes

"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abram Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Micheluzzi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buhl Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roberta83 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schubert (Friendship Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Irma T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zeni Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Renato Bernard, G Bonanno, L Trippa, C Peveri, E Bernard
Page Views: 270 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Dec 30, 2014
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a pretty easy completely bolted line a few minutes from the road – it can be climbed in a couple of hours and rappelled with a single 70 meter rope. It faces south so dries quickly. It is a nice choice for a warm up or a climb to squeeze into a narrow time window. There are no particularly memorable bits of climbing so it will never be a true classic even though it gets pretty busy.
Pitch 1: Climb up the ramp slightly moving right along the well bolted line. 5.7 30 meters
Pitch 2: Straight up the bolts on easy terrain. 5.7 20 meters
Pitch 3: Straight up to a ledge. 5.8 25 meters.
Pitch 4: UP the bolt line slightly right then along a fissure to a ledge. 5.10a/b 35 meters
Pitch 5: Up and right to a blank section – traverse this on thin holds to the right then up to the belay. 5.10+/11a 30 meters.
Pitch 6: Straight up along some bolts, thin moves over small roofs then up to belay. 5.10 30 meters.
From here it is likely best to rappel. The route does continue over mostly easy terrain for 3-4 more pitches with one hard move 2 pitches up. If you climb these you will need to traverse off along the large ledge – walking left to the 2nd Sella tower then down and hiking back.

Location

Park in the large dirt lot on the long straight stretch of road just below the base of Piz Ciavazes. This lot is immediately after a hairpin curve coming uphill. Walk across the road head up and right to the base of the mountain heading towards the Abram Arete. The route starts up an obvious ramp/corner just to the right of a yellow wall that contains very blank appearing sport route(s). The start is in an obvious ramp/corner with many bolts.
Descent: Rappel with a single 70 meter rope from the top of the 6th pitch. Walk off from the top of the 10th pitch.

Protection

13 quick draws, 70 meter rope

Photos

0 Comments

More About Papa Giovanni Paolo II

Printer-Friendly