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Routes in Lastoni di Formin

Evergreen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love my Dogs (Spiz de Mondeval formation) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nikibi (Torrione Marcella formation) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
North West Buttress T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Re Artu (Spiz de Mondeval formation) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Via Paulo Amedeo (Torrione Marcella formation ) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, Alpine, 950 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mario Dibona, Gretchen Alexander 2005
Page Views: 190 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Dec 30, 2014
Admins: Tim Wolfe

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Description

A great bolted multipitch route that is much more difficult than the adjacent Re Artu. Well equipped with Fixe Hardware belays so easy to get off in bad weather.
Pitch 1: Easy terrain with occasional bolts leads to a ledge just below the overhanging yellow grey wall. 5.8 30 meters
Pitch 2: Brilliant steep crimpy climbing directly up the face the step right to the top of a pillar. 5.11b/c, 30 meters.
Pitch 3: Up the grey slab and over a roof. 5.11ab 30 meters
Pitch 4: Follow bolts up and slightly left on grey slab. 5.10a, 33 meters
Pitch 5: Steep then over a roof. 5.10c 32 meters
Pitch 6: A long pitch following bolts up a corner then a steep face. 5.10b 50 meters
Pitch 7: Crux moves through a large roof and crack to an uncomfortable hanging belay.5.11c 35 meters
Pitch 8: Easy terrain up and over small roof. 5.8 22 meters
Pitch 9: More easy terrain to top. 5.8 20 meters.

Location

Parking and approach: Descend the road from Passo Giau until a hairpin turn aims you directly east looking at Lastoni di Formin. 100-200 meters later the road abruptly turns left and there is a dirt parking lot for about 6 cars on the left (West) side of the road. Park here. Across the road is a big cow pasture and at the turn is the alternate start to trail 436 (the other start is at Passo Giau). Hike this trail towards the pass (Forcella Giau) that is visible just to the right of the mountain. (You can also park at Passo Giau and follow trail 436 across the hillside and pick up this same path just prior to its ascent to the Forcella). Hike up to the pass. At the top of the pass looking North East just above you on the left you see the South face of the Spiz de Mondeval sector of Lastoni di Formin. This wall contains the routes Re Artu and Love my Dogs. Hike off the trail up through the boulders and skirt the wall following a faint then good trail through the rocks until it intersects the base of the wall. The route names are painted on the wall here. It is sometime easiest to spot the well bolted second pitch of Love my Dogs that ascend very steep yellow rock to a pillar top. The first pitch is easy terrain directly under this yellow wall. 50 minute approach.
Descent: Walk right (East) along the edge of the wall towards a gully a few hundred meters over. The side of the gully has red paint that says “3x25” – meaning 3 rappels of 25 meters each. Wear your helmet and Do not do double rope rappels or you may not be able to retrieve your ropes and you will likely chop them with rock fall. Carefully rappel down the gully 3 times being wary each time you pull your rope. At the base it is a short hike on a nice trail back west along the base of the wall to your gear. Another descent option is to just hike all the way back (towards Pelmo) to Forcella Rossa then descend the gully and bend back around hiking back on trail 435 then 436 but this is at least 2 hours compared to the 30 minute rappel descent.

Protection

15 quick draws. One 60 meter rope

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