Nikiby (Torrione Marcella formation)

This is a very enjoyable route with one pitch of sustained but well protected 5.11a/b and a number of great 5.10 pitches. With the exception of the first 15m of the initial pitch and the last pitch, it is well protected with bolts.

P1: 5.7, 35m, 3 bolts, 1 pin
Start about 3 meters (10 feet) right of where the route name is scratched into the rock. Climb 10-15m up a shallow depression that passes the subtle buttress feature on its right side. You will find the first bolt at this point and the climbing is straightforward. Continue straight up on easing terrain passing 2 more bolts and a piton before reaching the anchor.

P2: 5.3, 10m
Continue straight up to a large ledge, cross the gully and reach the next 2 bolt & pin anchor in a short pitch.

Combining pitch 1 & 2 is recommended.

For the remaining pitches follow the bolt line, although at times they may be a bit challenging to spot.

P3: 5.10a, 32m, 8 bolts
P4: 5.10b, 31m 4 bolts
P5: 5.9, 30m 4 bolts, Bolt&pin anchor
P6: 5.11b, 25m 10 bolts
P7: 5.10b, 34m 11 bolts
P8:  5.10c, 32m 10 bolts
P9:  5.5, 25m loose & little to no gear but 2 bolt anchor on summit.

All belay stations have a two bolt anchor system with a rap ring. The one exception is P5 which has a bolt and a piton and some 10mm cord joining the two. 

The last pitch detracted from an otherwise fine route and if there is no one behind you I would consider rappelling the route. A single 70m or double ropes would suffice.

This route sits on the final tower on the North end (far left from the road) of Lastoni di Formin. There is a large dirt parking strip near a pasture that sits directly below the formation. This parking is on the east side of the road (right side going downhill) and adjacent to the SP 638 POCOL Km 6 sign. This parking is a few kilometers further downhill from the parking described for Re Artu and other routes on this mountain. Once you find the parking, head across the meadow on the uphill side following a faint trail down across the creek and up the other side then follow regular cairns and a good path to reach the scree slope. Climb the scree up to the base of the wall. The name of this route and Paolo Amedeo are inscribed in the rock. Nikibi starts to the left and is a little hard to initially find since the first pitch has only 2-3 bolts.
Descent: Walk Left (north) and descend the gully immediately to the north of the formation back to the base.

12 quick/alpine draws

A 0.2 or 0.3 Camelot can protect the opening pitch’s run out if desired.