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Horsetail Falls

WI3, Trad, Ice, 260 ft (79 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.3 from 24 votes
FA: John Weiland, Solo
Alaska > Anchorage & S C… > Anchorage & S C… > Valdez > Keystone Canyon

Description

This amazing roadside attraction was the first peace of ice to be climbed in Valdez back in December of 1975. This is a contently flowing fetcher that forms during cold spells, crumbles during a warm streak and then will freeze again and again over the course of a normal year. Your route will often be determined by avoiding open water. This can often make for an exciting experience yet worth while. When formed this is a must climb classic that will leave you hungry for more.

P1. Horsetail Falls starts with a moderate pitch of 45+ degree ice that will bring you to the steeper upper section.

P2. The second pitch is the crux with a steep first section that will bring you to the top of the falls. Keep climbing past for another half a rope length till you reach a good alder rap station.

Location

Left side of the Canyon 13.55 miles from the intersection at Airport Road and the Richardson Highway. This is the first major climb you will see on the left side of the Richardson Highway as you enter Keystone from Valdez. There is a large pullout at the base of the falls. Use the abundant supply of alder rappel stations to descend the route.

Protection

Ice Screws, Rappel From Alders.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Horsetail Falls in the fattest conditions to date.
[Hide Photo] Horsetail Falls in the fattest conditions to date.
Climbers playing on flows to the lookers left of Horsetail Falls in 2017.  Photo Jenny McCord
[Hide Photo] Climbers playing on flows to the lookers left of Horsetail Falls in 2017. Photo Jenny McCord
Horsetail left side 2017 photo Jordan Nahir
[Hide Photo] Horsetail left side 2017 photo Jordan Nahir
Fat conditions on Horsetail with Zachary Sheldon taking rad photos.<br>
[Hide Photo] Fat conditions on Horsetail with Zachary Sheldon taking rad photos.
Another great shot by Zachary Sheldon.
[Hide Photo] Another great shot by Zachary Sheldon.
Great photo of Horsetail Falls Zachary Sheldon. Another fun holiday in Keystone.
[Hide Photo] Great photo of Horsetail Falls Zachary Sheldon. Another fun holiday in Keystone.
Another great day of climbing in Valdez for Tailor, Jessica and Nick
[Hide Photo] Another great day of climbing in Valdez for Tailor, Jessica and Nick
Horsetail in wet conditions.
[Hide Photo] Horsetail in wet conditions.