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Routes in Bonny and Clyde Wall- AKA Drifters Wall

Chesnutt Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drifters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escalade Escapade S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grifters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nuts and Bolts S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Psycho Spasm S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rifters S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rust Bucket S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Chesnutt
Page Views: 295 total · 6/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Dec 28, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

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Description

A slightly sandbagged face climb just left of an arete that features safe, but widely spaced bolts and a very intense crux at the last bolt.

Reach high for the start holds and follow big pulls between good pockets and knobs until the angle lessens. A few balancy moves through a pebbly band lead to more vertical terrain with crisp patina edges that end just before the last bolt. Grab a shake, then pinch past the crux on some subtle, protruding bumps to the chains.

Location

On the right side of the wall before a small gully.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

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Just in case anyone gets on this route and is confused- the crux move used to feature a bigger move to fairly good sidepull, but recently when I was climbing this route, the sidepull broke off completely. The route is still climbable, as there are some small knobs surrounding where the bigger hold used to be, but I'm not sure if the grade is the same seeing as that was the crux. Apr 28, 2015
Paul Barnes
Gainesville, Georgia
Paul Barnes   Gainesville, Georgia
Please spell the man's name correctly...it's Chesnutt. Sep 21, 2015
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
Paul Barnes wrote:Please spell the man's name correctly...it's Chesnutt.
Fixed. Sep 21, 2015

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