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Cat Crack

5.11a/b, Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 81 votes
FA: Peter Gompper
California > San Diego County > N San Diego County > Mt Woodson > Rexrodes

Description

Sweet tips crack with delicate feet. Not sure on the rating, but I think it's correct. Head north about 50 yards past Rexrode Inn on the west side to the main crag. You can drop down to the right or left when you reach a north-facing dropoff. Anchor bolts for this and other climbs are obvious. This is my new favorite finger crack on the hill.

Didn't realize how long this climb was - tried to do this with my 25 meter (82 foot) rope...not happening. Probably need 100 ft to comfortably TR from the bolts with a ground belay.

Protection

Looks like thin gear would do it - bolted anchor and walkoff make for an easy TR setup.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Onsight solo, perhaps not the best idea... Photo by Chris Hubbard
[Hide Photo] Onsight solo, perhaps not the best idea... Photo by Chris Hubbard
Balancy tips
[Hide Photo] Balancy tips
The monkeys are sending at Rexrodes. Photo by Frank Dolan
[Hide Photo] The monkeys are sending at Rexrodes. Photo by Frank Dolan
Such a fun route! and long for Woodson
[Hide Photo] Such a fun route! and long for Woodson
Cat Crack an Kitty Gully from above.
[Hide Photo] Cat Crack an Kitty Gully from above.
Hunter Reinig on the steller finger crack that is The Cat Crack!!!
[Hide Photo] Hunter Reinig on the steller finger crack that is The Cat Crack!!!
sweet tips braj!
[Hide Photo] sweet tips braj!
Don't feel bad a 15 YO can hike your project Braj!!! :)
[Hide Photo] Don't feel bad a 15 YO can hike your project Braj!!! :)
Looking down from the top of Cat Crack
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the top of Cat Crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jordan Cannon
Bend, OR
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] One of the best tips crack on the Hill and my personal favorite- long, splitter, and clean. It's away from crowds always in the shade (as far as I know). Must do! Apr 24, 2016
master gumby
 
[Hide Comment] This thing is so rad and the locks are so good! Couple of hard moves to start and then pure finger goodness on the way up!! I was too chicken to boulder it so i led it, but could totally see it happening. Nov 14, 2018
Hangdog Hank
Leavenworth, WA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] This thing is stellar! Surprisingly sustained, although there is two definite Crux’s in the first 15 feet it stays engaging until the top out. 4 stars anywhere! Dec 31, 2019
D Y
Tustin, CA
 
[Hide Comment] A finger crack with good feet!!! Feb 2, 2020
twinity wobinson
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This line is surely not sustained with a brief low try-hard move. Definitely worth the risk of debilitating poison oak, though, so splitter. Aug 25, 2020
Pugnacious Slab
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] Brush your damn tick marks when you’re done!! Mar 8, 2021
J B
[Hide Comment] I saw zero poison oak.

Agreed, brush yer tick marks people, this is pristine nature out here. Nov 6, 2021
Tradiban
951-527-7959
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This would be 10d if it was higher up on the hill, nawmean? Mar 1, 2022