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Routes in {10} Backdoor

Another Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back Door Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Basement Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Rock Falling S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Coach Demonstrates S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cowboy Arete S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon Pole T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon with Matches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody's Welfare S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Teeth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hao Ren Alang S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harley Davidson S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hermit Crab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Class Quickdraw S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into Thin Air TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jeff's RP Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Five-Thirteen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lava Tube S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion Queen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Motorcycle S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
New Ferrari S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phantom Fright T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Po V-easy 3
RCC TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Redhead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rodeo Clown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Security Blanket T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sidestep T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Sea T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three-Legged Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Twisting S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under the Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vita S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Water Heater Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Who Fooled Who? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 52 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 24, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Sketchy rock and sketchy gear make this an incredibly exciting moderate. There is reliable gear when you really need it, but this route is not for the fainthearted 5.7 climber.

Start up the left-trending flake using small protection. Make a sketchy mantel onto the top of the block. The angle starts to kick back, but you have huge holds as you step right across the horizontals. Wrap yourself around the refrigerator, finagle some protection, then step back left. Pull through to big jugs on the platform above. Don't fall. Belay on solid gear in horiztonal.

Descend from anchor above and left, or keep going straight up for a second pitch of slightly harder climbing on the golden face. Small cams recommended for this.

Location

Middle of the south face of Little Turtle Island, the obvious left-trending flake.

Protection

Gear to 1.5"
Titanium anchor (2017) - both pitches

Photos

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