Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 68 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 24, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

Sketchy rock and sketchy gear make this an incredibly exciting moderate. There is reliable gear when you really need it, but this route is not for the fainthearted 5.7 climber.

Start up the left-trending flake using small protection. Make a sketchy mantel onto the top of the block. The angle starts to kick back, but you have huge holds as you step right across the horizontals. Wrap yourself around the refrigerator, finagle some protection, then step back left. Pull through to big jugs on the platform above. Don't fall. Belay on solid gear in horiztonal.

Descend from anchor above and left, or keep going straight up for a second pitch of slightly harder climbing on the golden face. Small cams recommended for this.

Location

Middle of the south face of Little Turtle Island, the obvious left-trending flake.

Protection

Gear to 1.5"
Titanium anchor (2017) - both pitches

Photos

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