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Routes in (zz) Upper Gorge

Approach Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Big Tuna S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Bushwhacker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Celibate Wives S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colorsplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conflicted Goddess S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E type Jag S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feminazis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Land of the Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mojomatic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Natural Art S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Naxis S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seep, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Infested Waters S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sign Of The Priest, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unique Monique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up Country S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Urge, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jeff Frizzel
Page Views: 226 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on Dec 23, 2014
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

Start in a little alcove just to the right of the E Type start. After getting established a tricky palming move gets you to some good crack holds. Good luck trying to fit your right hands into the crack, and holding on to the arete on the left. A fun crank from the ringlock crack to a good hold gives you a little respite. The second crux is more of the same, tiiny holds in the crack and ripples around the corner. Then, without any respite, set up for a big deadpoint.

Like the Urge, expect this to feel plenty hard for the grade. Its worth noting that pretty much all of Frizzel's testpeice's in this grade range have been upgraded.

Location

The first bolted line upstream (right) of E-Type Jag. You can set up a top rope by climbing E Type, then moving right to the 11d top rope anchors (5th Dimension),then swinging right on the way down.

Protection

8 bolts, anchors

Photos

Tried this again 3 years later, same day as Feminazis and this felt much harder. Best way to TR this is to swing from E Type Anchors to the anchors for Fifth Dimension, and then use directionals to keep the rope in. The anchor shared with 7th Deadly Sin makes it really hard to do the deadpoint move. 6 days ago

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