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Group Therapy (aka Wrangler Dangler, Dracula)

WI5-6 M6-7, Mixed, Ice, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 5 votes
FA: '70s/'80s. FFA - Dave Sheldon, '98
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Poudre Canyon

Description

Steep, bold, and beautiful - this route commands the attention of many as they make their way up the canyon. An easy flow spills out of nowhere to shroud a overhanging cave in candles and fangs. There are probably a few variations to be followed.

A history of the route can be found here.

This route can come in as early as November and is usually gone by February. The dry-tooling is pretty fun even if the ice is gone or only present at the top.

Location

This route is located on the south side of the river on the western end of the Narrows/Sheep Mountain and sits on the boundary of the Cache La Poudre Wilderness.

The safest way to access the climb is to wait until the river is frozen solid, otherwise wear waders or cross via the scary/questionable cable upriver (not recommended).

Protection

Screws, gear, and courage. Toproping this climb can be dangerous, and care should be taken.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Early November 2019, see the comment for details.
[Hide Photo] Early November 2019, see the comment for details.
Mitchell on the opening steps of a thin, early season run on Dracula (GT / WD).
[Hide Photo] Mitchell on the opening steps of a thin, early season run on Dracula (GT / WD).
Mark on Group Therapy, 2013.
[Hide Photo] Mark on Group Therapy, 2013.
Condition photo 30 December 2017. The river is not frozen, so the approach involves a water crossing.
[Hide Photo] Condition photo 30 December 2017. The river is not frozen, so the approach involves a water crossing.
Group Therapy, December 2013.
[Hide Photo] Group Therapy, December 2013.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Ryan Dresser and I approached the climb via pack-raft, and went ground-up to the right of center route. I placed 3 pins on lead to protect the middle and final sections. Pulling the final roof is strenuous with no ice. Many grapefruit-sized blocks to a microwave-sized block came down on the lead, so be sure to hide your belayer off to the side of the alcove.

2.16.20 EDIT

Ryan D Lead today, and I followed. Inspected the gear, and they are as good as pins in choss can be. Best in the poudre, go get it! Nov 4, 2019