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Routes in Eureka

Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: V. Anderson & P. Howard
Page Views: 1,325 total · 32/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Dec 20, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Edit]

P1. Climb the low-angle slab to a good ledge in a cave on the left. Use a single bolt and small TCU anchor (WI3/4, 70').

P2. Climb rock past two bolts to reach the curtain of ice. Belay off screws after the steepness ends (M6 WI5/6, 80').

P3. This is mostly snow climbing with a few small ice bumps. Belay off screws in a cave on the right (WI2, 100').

P4. Climb the pillar, which is steep for maybe 50', then climb some moderate ice that leads to a snow-covered rock finish. Belay off pins to the left (WI4/5, 150').

Descent - we had two 70m ropes. Rap from the pin anchor to the top of P2. V-thread and rap to the base of P1.

Location [Edit]

About 1/2 mile before reaching the Eureka parking lot off to the left, there is a prominent cleft/gully to the left side of the rock wall.

Protection [Edit]

Screws, pins, and TCUs.

Photos

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As of 21 Jan. 2015, the pillar on pitch 2 is touching down and supports body weight, albeit with poor screw placements for the first ~20-30'. We climbed as a party of 3 and, with two 70m ropes, did the route comfortably in two pitches. Note that the three pins in the anchor at the top of the flow were all loose, and in looking over the rock climber's left from the former pin locations, there is tat and a new(ish) rap ring on a solid tree. Given this scenario, pins and cord were removed.

From said tree, two ~60 meter raps take you to your gear at the base. Jan 21, 2015

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