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Routes in Good Times on Planet Earth

Immortal Technique by Ken T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Into the Knight S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Live a Life of Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Purgatorio S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
You may say I'm a Dreamer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Aaron Stireman, Ken Klis
Page Views: 396 total, 11/month
Shared By: Serial Crusher on Dec 17, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

One of those routes that just leaves you smiling when you belay someone up to you. Make sure they don't grab your draw on bolt 1 :), it happened to me twice!

A finger crack in a right leaning dihedral for about 25 feet, that takes perfect gear. The undisputed classic route to get on, better than almost anything around. Crux is right before bolt 1, so trust the feet!

Location

Far right of the wall, you cant miss it. Climbs up a beautiful orange streak from behind a tree to a 2 bolt anchor. Please be nice to the ferns around.

Protection

Perfect gear in a splitter corner. I used a #3 (unnecessary start piece), .5 camalot, and a perfect medium sized offset nut (red). Bring 2 draws. Chain anchor.

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Frodeman
  5.10-
Frodeman  
  5.10-
This route is short. We heard it was a nice finger crack dihedral ("Best route on Bishop Peak") and scampered up bishop peak to get to it... It is not. It's a decent route for MAYBE 15 feet, with a maximum of 2 finger locks/jams. Pretty dirty liebacking/crimping. After the initial boulder problem, it is dirty and crappy slab. Not worth the effort it took to get there. If you fall clipping the bolt, you hit the ground, albeit gently. Beware. Sep 2, 2016
Sean P. Sullivan
Clovis, Ca
Sean P. Sullivan   Clovis, Ca
Felt harder than 10c, but hey i may have missed something. My partner got a rough lesson in the zipper effect, and had both of his pieces of gear pull when he fell at the crux. I broke his fall a bit but he decked. He got up dusted off, put a cam in the bottom like he should have in the first place and finished the climb. Bold lead, Not a sport climb. Climb past the crux, then clip the bolt. Good luck Nov 2, 2015