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Routes in Wild Wall

Rustic Wilderness S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Wild and Scenic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: S. McCorkel
Page Views: 532 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ben Scott on Dec 16, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Wild and Scenic is another stunning, seldom repeated Steve McCorkel route.

From the gully, climb past 3 bolts of 5.8 terrain using extra long slings to reach Steve's original 2-bolt belay anchor. From here, climb past 2 bolts in the slab to finally reach the main wall.

Start by doing a sort of leaning traverse up and left on big jugs. Be careful around the 2nd bolt, because your belayer cannot see you and the ledge/slab are pretty close. Get a rest at the break/horizontal, and pull up into the ramp/arch feature. The climbing is strangely hard to read and pumpy through this large feature. Above the ramp/arch feature lies the real heartbreak crux on small holds with a big throw to the slopey jug next to the chains.

Location

This route is the right-most line on the Wild Wall.

Protection

12 bolts, extra long slings for the bottom, 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Ol Toby
CA
  5.12d
Ol Toby   CA
  5.12d
Fantastic route with killer position above the Poudre. The upper crux sequence is pumpy and powerful on an amazing flake feature. Worth the effort for this one. Dec 19, 2014