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Routes in The Yoav Cracks

Crumpus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yoav Crack 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yoav Crack 2 V2 5+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Yoav Altman (TR), Erik Roed (lead)
Page Views: 2,913 total · 75/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 16, 2014
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This is a classic Woodson splitter, one of the best 5.10 cracks on "The Hill."

It's mostly sweet finger locks, with the crux near the top, as the crack widens slightly and steepens to just past vertical.

Many thanks to Erik and Yoav for sharing beta on this area.

Protection

Finger and fat-finger sized TCUs.

.75 camalot or similar for an anchor up top.

Photos

Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
 
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
 
Great climb, although a bit out of the way. Bolt is still there as of today, not sure why- it looks weird. Thanks for sharing! Apr 24, 2016
erikr  
Chris Diercks
San Diego, CA
Chris Diercks   San Diego, CA
AJ. Many thanks for posting up this climb up on MP. The new bolt, however, is not so cool and unnecessary. And I'm old and appreciate safety. Jan 20, 2015
Locals Only  
 
For TR setup. To be fair, it does a great job of keeping the rope out of the crack (still there yesterday).

That being said, the crack provides a totally BOMBER anchor setup. Less holes in the rock, the better. Jan 19, 2015
Is the bolt for the lead or for a TR setup? Jan 19, 2015
When you consider the amount of time spent approaching this climb vs. the amount of time spent climbing, rigging a gear anchor doesn't add significant time to the endeavor.

I appreciate the thought behind the bolt which helps keep the rope out of the crack. With some thoughtful rigging this can also be accomplished using standard gear and the features provided by nature. The bolt is superfluous.

Woodson, among other places, has served me as a schoolroom for both climbing and rigging skills which have carried me up hallowed rocks around the globe. I hope that future generations of San Diegans are left places to learn these hard and soft skills.

If you are looking to bang out a bunch of pitches on Woodson, you aren't carrying a rope. And if you are carrying a rope, a handful of cams won't break your back. Jan 18, 2015
Locals Only  
 
man... Jan 17, 2015
AJ
 
AJ  
 
Did a bolt really sprout on top of this gem within a month of my post?!

What a bummer. I'll definitely think twice before posting more obscurities.

Whoever drilled it: bogus. Jan 17, 2015
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
AJ,

Thanks for posting this. It would be nearly impossible to find without some direction.

This is a very nice route with considerable length for Woodson. Although I found it a bit coarse and grainy in spots. The occasional footholds on the face were suspect. However, it should clean up with more traffic. Roughly 15 minutes from the Potato Chip. Jan 8, 2015
SeanG81
 
SeanG81  
 
Thanks for posting these!

Yoav1 has 1 shiny new bolt which you can back up with med nut or .5"-.75" for anchor. Jan 2, 2015
Locals Only  
 
AJ, thanks for posting up. Hope to investigate this weekend. Dec 22, 2014

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