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Routes in Riverbend

Blowing Mud S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brand New Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dig Dog Dig S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reflections S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sanitary Fish Market S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slush S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southside S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sweet Dreams S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Then I Fired the Carrot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Then I Fired the Gun S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unnamed RB 1 S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed RB 2 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wish I Were a Fisherman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wish I Were a Golfer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 276 total · 6/month
Shared By: AndyJohnson on Dec 15, 2014
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: PRIVATELY OWNED PROPERTY Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Start just behind the dead tree at the base of the cliff and climb up a little right of the 1st bolt to stay on better rock. From here, use pinches, crimps and side pulls to work up past 2-3 short, more difficult sequences, separated by decent stances.

There is a full rest with good holds at a horizontal ledge, just before the 4th bolt and crux. Work up crimps to two stacked crimp nubs a few feet above the ledge. Move your feet up and reach high to a sharp side pull crimp / pocket, pull hard and continue up the diagonal crack on better holds. Clip the last bolt and layback the crack to the top.

Location [Suggest Change]

Right side of River Bend, 2nd route from the right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts to 2-cold shut anchor.

Photos

AndyJohnson
Alexandria, VA
 
AndyJohnson   Alexandria, VA
 
This route has a grade of 5.12a on the original topo, but I honestly think the crux is similar in difficulty, but slightly shorter than the cruxes of Then I Fired the Carrot or Southside (both 5.12c). Definitely harder than Sanitary Fish Market. Maybe there is better beta, or a crimp broke. Anyone else climb this one?

I found the crux to be a pretty sharp, but all in all it is a great face climb. Dec 15, 2014

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