Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 295 total · 6/month
Shared By: AndyJohnson on Dec 15, 2014
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: PRIVATELY OWNED PROPERTY Details

Description

Start just behind the dead tree at the base of the cliff and climb up a little right of the 1st bolt to stay on better rock. From here, use pinches, crimps and side pulls to work up past 2-3 short, more difficult sequences, separated by decent stances.

There is a full rest with good holds at a horizontal ledge, just before the 4th bolt and crux. Work up crimps to two stacked crimp nubs a few feet above the ledge. Move your feet up and reach high to a sharp side pull crimp / pocket, pull hard and continue up the diagonal crack on better holds. Clip the last bolt and layback the crack to the top.

Location

Right side of River Bend, 2nd route from the right.

Protection

5 bolts to 2-cold shut anchor.

Photos

AndyJohnson
Alexandria, VA
  5.12b
AndyJohnson   Alexandria, VA
  5.12b
This route has a grade of 5.12a on the original topo, but I honestly think the crux is similar in difficulty, but slightly shorter than the cruxes of Then I Fired the Carrot or Southside (both 5.12c). Definitely harder than Sanitary Fish Market. Maybe there is better beta, or a crimp broke. Anyone else climb this one?

I found the crux to be a pretty sharp, but all in all it is a great face climb. Dec 15, 2014