El Cap Original Route/ West Face
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1200 ft, Grade IV|
|FA:||Ray Garner, Herb Conn, Lee Pedrick. 5/29/1949|
|Page Views:||3,607 total, 101/month|
|Shared By:||Kevin Kent on Dec 14, 2014|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
It is presently illigal to climb on the Navajo Indian Reservation. These climbs are listed here for historical purposes only.
DescriptionEdit: After talking to a bunch more locals it became very clear to me only white people call this formation Agathla(n) (means piles of wool in Diné), so I'm going with what they call it: El Cap.
This is a very serious and dangerous climb.
I'll try to keep the description light to preserve some of the adventure. Climb up the dike on the west face consisting of extremely blocky and loose but dense basalt. Wind around following easiest path, but generally staying on the right side of the dike. Mostly easy movement punctuated with short sections that are steeper or looser and more intimidating. Good pro is hard to find because so much of the rock is loose. After a few pitches, gain a notch at the top right of the dike and enter the north bowl system. Unrope and scramble down and traverse to the next bowl and continue up talus bowl to the NE ridge. From there climb 5.6X for 300' to the summit (no register).
To get down reverse the ridge and bowls to a lower notch above the west face dike. 4 raps with one 70m rope will get you down. The rappels generally consist of pins from the FA supplemented with fixed nuts, newer pins, or the odd old bolt.
It's hard to break this climb down into a star, difficulty, or grade rating. Definitely a memorable experience though. Maybe it's not truly X but who knows. FA said 5.7. I've seen it called 5.9+/R+++
To keep this above board get approval from the locals who live at the base before climbing.
More info can be found in Green's Rock Climbing Arizona, Bjornstad's Desert Rock, and a nice feature article in the 1950 American Alpine Journal.