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Routes in Tri-Level Spire

Afternooner S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cliptomania S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Innerspace T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
No Mystique T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prancer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweet Surrender T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Trident S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Mike Head (1990)
Page Views: 186 total · 4/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Dec 13, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description [Edit]

An improbable line up seemingly blank vertical face, Cliptomania features technical edging, sidepulls, and crimps. Your footwork and finger strength will be put to the test. Your tips will scream in pain. While unimpressed with this route from the ground, the delicate sequences earned my respect. The demanding moves keep me doubting and making evermore micro-refinements.

Location [Edit]

Cliptomania is located on the north face of Tri-Level Spire; Prancer is immediately to the right; ET Arete on Rupley Towers is 50ft back. The surrounding environs are a little rugged and uneven.

Protection [Edit]

6 bolts to ring anchors. The anchors are shared with Prancer.

The first bolt is 15ft off the deck and the last bolt is 20ft from the chains. The climbing in these sections is significantly easier than the tightly bolted middle but caution is still suggested. An optional 7th bolt belonging to Prancer can be clipped to ease the runout; personally this bolt seemed unnecessary and off route.

Photos

MJW
Boise, ID
MJW   Boise, ID
I did this route once with EFR bitd. I was prepping to fall but instead reached down to grab the draw. Somehow I un-clipped myself and took a big upside down whip. EFR had a funny/semi-serious response to the effect of..."now why would you do than man...just take the whip". He couldn't have been more correct ;-) Apr 30, 2016

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