All Locations > International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Sella Group > Passo Sella Area > Piz Ciavazes
Avg: 4 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 800 ft, 9 pitches|
|FA:||Roberto Platter, Luigi Felicetti 1983 (Rebolted in 2009)|
|Page Views:||432 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Wolfe on Dec 8, 2014|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionThis is an awesome day on the wall with consistent 5.10 to easy 5.11 climbing and one much harder but short crux. It is all bolted and all belays are fixed with high quality bolts and rappel rings so you can bail at any time making it safe on a questionable weather day. The approach is 10-15 minutes and it faces south so drys quickly in the morning. Not surprisingly given these features it can be busy - welcome to the Dolomites in the summer.
Pitch 1: Do not start at the bolt next to the Roberta inscription. Instead move left 3-5 meters and climb straight up to a bolt and then intersect the bolt line above. Follow the bolts up and slightly right for 30 meters. 6a+ 30 meters.
Pitch 2: Climb straight up and turn the right side of the roof above. 6a 20 meters.
Pitch 3: Up and slightly left near the top. 6b 30 meters.
Pitch 4: Up to the big ledge trending slightly right. 6a 25 meters.
Pitch 5: Straight up the step left to a ledge under a roof that angles up and right (below the huge roof two pitches higher). 6a 15 meters
Pitch 6: The crux. Climb up and right under the roof. Clip a bolt over the lip. High step left and power up to a rest and the next clip (7a). Extremely thin and powerful moves pass several more bolts to a hand rail (7a+ - easier if you stay right of the bolt line, harder 7b to 7c if you go straight up the bolts). Traverse the hand rail left to a belay. 7a+ 20 meters.
Pitch 7: Up left then long traverse up and right to a niche beneath a channel that exits a roof. 6a+ 35 meters.
Pitch 8: Climb the channel then over the roof, up some cracks and then traverse back right to a small ledge. Medium cams are very useful on this and the next pitch. 6b+ 50 meters.
Pitch 9: Straight up, over a roof and up a bolt line. 6b+ 40 m.
LocationLocation: Park in the large dirt lot on the long straight stretch of road just below the base of Piz Ciavazes. This lot is immediately after a hairpin curve coming uphill. Walk across the road and up the trail to the base of the mountain to just beneath a large horizontal roof and slightly left of the parking area. There is graffiti on the wall saying Roberta next to a short curved ramp. (The route is 40 meters left of the start of Big Micheluzzi just down the slight hill).
Descent: Rappel the route straight down using 2 ropes. If you climb to the top all the rappels except the top one will be on a different route to the climbers right of Roberta83 (it is possible to traverse back left onto the line if you want to work the crux pitch again). You can also climb the route with a single rope and walk off the standard method along the huge traverse all the way back to the second Sella Tower then back around the base of Piz Ciavazes.