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Routes in Piz Ciavazes

"Bergfuehrerweg"/Route of the Guides. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Abram Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Micheluzzi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buhl Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papa Giovanni Paolo II S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roberta83 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Schubert (Friendship Route) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Via Irma T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zeni Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 800 ft, 9 pitches
FA: Roberto Platter, Luigi Felicetti 1983 (Rebolted in 2009)
Page Views: 712 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Dec 8, 2014
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

This is an awesome day on the wall with consistent 5.10 to easy 5.11 climbing and one much harder but short crux. It is all bolted and all belays are fixed with high quality bolts and rappel rings so you can bail at any time making it safe on a questionable weather day. The approach is 10-15 minutes and it faces south so drys quickly in the morning. Not surprisingly given these features it can be busy - welcome to the Dolomites in the summer.
Pitch 1: Do not start at the bolt next to the “Roberta” inscription. Instead move left 3-5 meters and climb straight up to a bolt and then intersect the bolt line above. Follow the bolts up and slightly right for 30 meters. 6a+ 30 meters.
Pitch 2: Climb straight up and turn the right side of the roof above. 6a 20 meters.
Pitch 3: Up and slightly left near the top. 6b 30 meters.
Pitch 4: Up to the big ledge trending slightly right. 6a 25 meters.
Pitch 5: Straight up the step left to a ledge under a roof that angles up and right (below the huge roof two pitches higher). 6a 15 meters
Pitch 6: The crux. Climb up and right under the roof. Clip a bolt over the lip. High step left and power up to a rest and the next clip (7a). Extremely thin and powerful moves pass several more bolts to a hand rail (7a+ - easier if you stay right of the bolt line, harder 7b to 7c if you go straight up the bolts). Traverse the hand rail left to a belay. 7a+ 20 meters.
Pitch 7: Up left then long traverse up and right to a niche beneath a channel that exits a roof. 6a+ 35 meters.
Pitch 8: Climb the channel then over the roof, up some cracks and then traverse back right to a small ledge. Medium cams are very useful on this and the next pitch. 6b+ 50 meters.
Pitch 9: Straight up, over a roof and up a bolt line. 6b+ 40 m.

Location

Location: Park in the large dirt lot on the long straight stretch of road just below the base of Piz Ciavazes. This lot is immediately after a hairpin curve coming uphill. Walk across the road and up the trail to the base of the mountain to just beneath a large horizontal roof and slightly left of the parking area. There is graffiti on the wall saying “Roberta” next to a short curved ramp. (The route is 40 meters left of the start of Big Micheluzzi just down the slight hill).
Descent: Rappel the route straight down using 2 ropes. If you climb to the top all the rappels except the top one will be on a different route to the climbers right of Roberta83 (it is possible to traverse back left onto the line if you want to work the crux pitch again). You can also climb the route with a single rope and walk off the standard method along the huge traverse all the way back to the second Sella Tower then back around the base of Piz Ciavazes.

Protection

12 quick draws, Few long slings to reduce drag, A small selection of cams 0.5-2 is nice if you want to back up some of the 20 foot runs on 5.10.

Photos

heppnerd  
 
This is great route, a must do if your in the area. Crux of the route is a 5.12 slab that is well bolted and can be aided easily . You can rap the route with 2 ropes from the last anchors . The rap stations are to the right of the actual climb but easy to find. I would however highly recommend the walk off, it is very easy and amazing!! Just walk to the left at the top of the climb on a well traveled trail.Overall I liked this climb more than the classic yellow wall on the Cima Piccola. Oct 16, 2015

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