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Yellow Dog Dingo

5.6, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.6 from 188 votes
FA: Alan Prehmus
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Other Critters
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Description

Optional P0. Start in a clean reddish inside corner 70 feet. below most of the other routes. Push up to the top of the corner, clip the second bolt and exit the corner right. The little roof above is 5.8-, but can be avoided to the left. Easy climbing leads to the traverse ledge where most of the other climbs on Other Critters start.

P1. Start up the shoulder along or right of the shallow crack. Follow bolts up through steeper rock to an alcove. Climb the left side face, or up the back of the alcove. Exiting the alcove is the crux (5.7). Continue to the belay at the 2 bolt anchor.

P2. Follow the bolts up the easy slabs (5.5) to a second anchor.P3. Scramble 20 feet up and left into the corner where the rock is least steep. To stay at 5.7, avoid the Dance Hornpipes bolts above/slightly right of the belay. Climb up and right to get out from under the overhang and onto the beautiful easy headwall. Step right away from the corner that is the Dance Horn Pipes Where You Shouldn't variation. Climb the face heading towards the chain anchors. Clip a chain, then step right to the belay anchors.

P3 "Dance Horn Pipes Where You Shouldn't" alternate third pitch. Start slightly to the right from the anchor, and use the two bolts right of YDD's first two. Cross YDD at the 3 ft. ledge, then climb the giant, right-facing corner. Just before the corner deteriorates, move up & left onto the left wall. A full length sling here will reduce rope drag. Achieve the stance. Do the dance. It's exposed! Finish up through horizontally featured section (5.8) to the top. You'll need to pull all the way over the lip to reach the trad-style double bolt anchor.A new rappel anchor has been installed to climber's left (west) of the summit block. This is a much safer option than the scramble to reach the P3 anchors of Yellow Dog Dingo. The new anchor will land you at the P2 anchors of Yellow Dog Dingo; finish with the regular Yellow Dog Dingo rappel route. You won't be able to see if there's anyone at the P2 anchors while you're on the summit so yell loudly before you throw your rope.

Note that the placard signage by the last bolt of the route points to the old, still-existing, inconvenient trad-style anchor bolts on the summit block that you can't rap from, but can still use to bring up your follower. Alternately, you can walk off the top via the dirty, loose, thorn-filled gully to the west of the summit, between Safari and Live Action. The gully is not fun and has some exposed moves. Not recommended in poor weather but might be your best option if YDD is super crowded. Any pair of pitches can be combined. For P2 & P3 rope drag might be an issue.

Location

Yellow Dog Dingo starts 15 feet right of the 7 foot boulder blocking the west end of the ramp that forms the base of the area. It is 20 feet left of Labby.

Protection

Bolts: 8 for P1, 4 for P2, 8 for P3.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Yellow Dog Dingo and the Dance Hornpipes Where You Shouldn't P3 variation.
[Hide Photo] Yellow Dog Dingo and the Dance Hornpipes Where You Shouldn't P3 variation.
Russ at the rap anchor on Dance Horn Pipes. Thanks to Peter for installing it!
[Hide Photo] Russ at the rap anchor on Dance Horn Pipes. Thanks to Peter for installing it!
The start of P0.
[Hide Photo] The start of P0.
The whole route with the optional Pitch 0 in blue.
[Hide Photo] The whole route with the optional Pitch 0 in blue.
Looking up at pitches 2 and 3 with the variation in blue.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at pitches 2 and 3 with the variation in blue.
Jim on 'Dance Horn Pipes Where You Shouldn't' variation.
[Hide Photo] Jim on 'Dance Horn Pipes Where You Shouldn't' variation.
From the belay at the bottom of P2, looking up at Hornpipes.
[Hide Photo] From the belay at the bottom of P2, looking up at Hornpipes.
1st pitch.
[Hide Photo] 1st pitch.
On P0.
[Hide Photo] On P0.
On the Hornpipes variation.
[Hide Photo] On the Hornpipes variation.
The whole route with the optional pitch 0 in blue.
[Hide Photo] The whole route with the optional pitch 0 in blue.
October 24, 2020 - loose rock near the P1 anchors of Yellow Dog Dingo.
[Hide Photo] October 24, 2020 - loose rock near the P1 anchors of Yellow Dog Dingo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Sinclair
Lafayette, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The first two pitches are good climbing and generously bolted, but the Hornpipe variation at the top is the payoff. Very fun. Be cautious about reaching the anchors to rap off. Dec 9, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This is a fun climb, and it is bolted very well. It seemed more like 5.6 than 5.7 to me. There are great holds in all the steep sections. Dec 20, 2014
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.5
[Hide Comment] I was annoyed you can't quite link any of the rappels with one rope, you have to do all 3 (if you want the ends to reach), but with two 70s, you can reach all the way down from the top.... Jan 18, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.6
[Hide Comment] The Horn Pipe variation is certainly better than the other last pitch. Not too hard, but great exposure. Jan 18, 2015
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] P1 is 5.5.
P2 is 5.4.
The Horn Pipes variation is 5.7 and the best pitch. Nice exposure. Would use long slings on the first 2-3 bolts as well. Why no animal name for this pitch?
There is also an old piton on P1. Jan 31, 2015
Alan Prehmus
littleton, co
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Why no critter name for Dance Hornpipes? The route name came before the area name. Yellow Dog Dingo, and most of my other route names at Other Critters, come from Kipling's "Just So Stories". Dance Hornpipes comes from there, too. The Other Critters name came later. Feb 1, 2015
Jason Platt
Colorado Springs, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I would give the Horn Pipes variation of the last pitch 3 stars easy, but the rest of the route isn't much to write home about. I also wouldn't totally count the difficulty out for the variation as well. There are 2 exposed sections high on the route that are easily 5.8. If you are here, make the trip up to this pitch. It'll be worth it. Mar 22, 2015
[Hide Comment] I agree with J Sinclair about Hornpipe.. use caution while getting to the Yellow Dog anchors. Also, sling the first 3-4 bolts as long as you can. Apr 30, 2015
Balazs Rau
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] How are you supposed to get off the anchors from the Horn Pipes variation? The rock looks really loose between it and the anchor of the standard P3. Or any info on which way the walk down is? We didn't want to risk either so just left a locker up there to rap from. Feb 29, 2016
Alan Prehmus
littleton, co
  5.7
[Hide Comment] To get from the top of Dance Horn Pipes to the Yellow Dog Dingo rap anchors, go up onto the hill side, then around right & above the large tree. Approach the anchors from the east. There is a walking ledge on that side with 2 bolts on the ground to protect the reach to the chains.

The walk-off goes up and left to the grove of ponderosa pines then diagonally down/west into the gully. There are a series of cairns marking the route.

Rappelling from Dance Horn Pipes is "not" recommended due to the sharp rock edges all around the top of the route. Mar 1, 2016
Jake Web
Denver, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Did the variation, it allows for a really nice topout. You hike around and rappel from rappell anchors next to the regular finish. You can't miss it.

It's a great climb, but unfortunately it will get crowded now due to being in the new book. Get it while ya can, before it's too much! Feb 19, 2018
L Kap
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Someone has installed a new rappel anchor to climber's left (west) of the Dance Horn Pipes summit block. It leads to the P2 anchors of YDD. If you do the Dance Horn Pipe finish, this new anchor is a safer option than scrambling to the P3 YDD anchor to start the rap. May 27, 2019
Matt Castelli
Denver
[Hide Comment] Pitches 0, 1, and 2 can be linked w/ an 80. Mayyyybe a 70? Apr 2, 2020
Aaron Sefton
Lakewood, CO
 
[Hide Comment] 3 stars for the "Dance Horn Pipes Where You Shouldn't" variation. Sep 27, 2020
Sam C
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed yesterday - above and to the right of the P1 anchors there's a big loose rock that I almost knocked down while rapping from the P2 anchors. Watch out! Oct 25, 2020
Kathryn K
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Please be careful to avoid knocking loose rocks off of this climb as they can land on people climbing at Other Critters below. A serious accident occurred today when a microwave-sized rock was knocked off the upper pitches of this route and hit a climber at the base of Other Critters. There were multiple occurrences of rockfall from the upper part of this climb onto the other critters area as over the course of the day. Dec 4, 2021
Kaleb Schumaker
Leadville, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Dance Hornpipes Where You Shouldn't variation is absolutely awesome. 5.8ish I would say and great exposure. Sep 25, 2022
Kevin Schwartz
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] In my opinion, the fun roof move on P0 and P3 Dance Hornpipes are not to be skipped! Probably puts the entire four pitches at around 5.8- and helps offset the boringness of P1 and P2. Definitely use some longer runners for the P3 Hornpipes. Regardless of what pitches you decide to climb, this is a great route to practice your multi-pitch skills on, just watch out for rocks falling from other parties! Jun 14, 2023