PRINT: Rock Climb Freak Show, Lover's Leap

Freak Show

5.11c/d, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.7 from 15 votes
FA: Jay Smith
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Lover's Leap > Main Formation > Main Wall

Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap Details

mountainproject.com/forum/t…

Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning Details

ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress

There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.

We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.

Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.

Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)

Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org

Description

Begin climbing up Eeyores Enigma keeping an eye out for the crack splitting the overhanging wall to the right. Transfer into the overhanging crack as soon as you can (about 40ft up). Tight fingers, pumpy off hands, thin feet and bomber jams are what you can expect on your way up this route. Just before your palms pump out from the jams, the route turns into a fierce lieback past a bomber pin to the chains. The gear on this route is absolutely bomber the whole way.

While at the chains, take the opportunity to traverse out right for two more pitches and climb the route Under the Big Top (5.10d).

Location

Located on an inconspicuous overhanging wall around the corner to the far left from Travelers Buttress. Begin climbing up where Eeyores Enigma starts.

Protection

Cams, doubles to 2". Nuts, 1 set.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Following Freak Show

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aidan Maguire
Placerville, CA

brilliant. steep. Upper crux requires blind gear placement. An incredible work out/ crack training climb. Stays in the shade all day Jan 7, 2018

Erik Griffith
Sacramento

If surrealistic pilllar direct and hospital corner are THE 5.10 cracks at the leap, this is THE 5.11 crack pitch at the leap. Starts with some rambling climbing up to a small ledge where the business begins. Place a few pieces to protect the initial bouldery sequence (I found a good .4 camalot out right, but there's plenty of options) getting into the crack from the ledge and make a few committing moves to a good, but pumpy hand jam. Fire in another cam and continue to make big moves and reaches in between locker, overhanging hand jams. No moves harder than 5.11, but not many moves are easier. Continuous and SUSTAINED all the way to the chains. This is one of those it's not over till it's over type routes. The falls are in space and gear is bomber.

No nuts. Bring one or two micro cams. the bulk of the route is climbing over solid .75-#3 camalots.

the description says 50 feet. But I'd call it closer to 70- 80 if you're counting the climbing up to the ledge. It's awesome. Get on it! Aug 7, 2018