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Routes in Lower Ridge Trail Slabs

Deb's Dillema T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gardner's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
In Lieu of Seneca T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Java Crazy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One Bolt Too Many T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right "5.9" Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Krusty Old Guys
Page Views: 353 total · 7/month
Shared By: savant fandangles on Dec 2, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

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Description

Once at the east facing lower ridge slab, you will see a prominent crack that roughly bisects the wall. The crack snakes up the wall and then terminates. At the terminus of this crack, you can traverse either left or right to gain one of two crack lines. Traverse right where the bolt is and gain the right crack (crux). The crack terminates at a slab and ascends a "Touloumne-like" slab (only much better protected) through three bolts to the tree. Rappel from the tree. This is a sling/ring rappel. Note: It is a good idea to bring extra webbing with you in the event that the sling anchor on the tree needs replaced. Please do not steal the rappel rings.

Location

Within the Lower Ridge Slabs area are multiple crags. This route is located at the east facing slab, which has a prominent tree 100ft up the slab.

To get to the east facing, lower ridge slabs, hike up the ridge trail. You will come to a rock slot that you will need to wiggle through. Just past this slot is the first major rock outcropping. This rock outcropping has a large, exposed rock formation, which looks reminiscent of a loaf of bread, sitting atop a slab. This is the first major outlook that people like to stop at. At this outcrop, you look down and to your right. You will see a large 100+ft slab that has a large, evergreen tree growing out from the upper portions of it (do not confuse this with The Whale's Lip. Look near, not far). Below this tree you can see a crack line. This is your destination.

From the outcrop, continue on the ridge trail through the rock scrambling. You will come to a col (aka saddle) in the trail. The trail will continue up hill to more rock outcroppings. Do not ascend the established trail any further. Rather, at this col descend the vegetated gulley that is to your left. Continue down the vegetated, rocky hillside until the terrain gets a little flatter. At this point, make a yawning turn gently to the right. Continue through the vegetation on relatively flat ground (ok, really relative). You will come to the base of the east facing wall.

Protection

This is a mixed route with four bolts. Moderate size gear (0.5 - 3) provide ample protection. The crux is protected by a bolt, as is the slab above the crack leading to the tree. Rappel from the tree.

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