Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 40 ft|
|FA:||Wolfgang Gullich, 1986|
|Page Views:||165 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Dec 2, 2014|
DescriptionIn 1986, after a winter spent writing the landmark Sportklettern Heute, Wolfgang Gullich left his mark on Rabenfels with his ascent of Ghettoblaster, hailed as the first upper-tenth grade route in Germany, and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time (Gullich had established Punks in the Gym, the first X+ or 5.14a precisely 51 weeks earlier). Prolific Frankenjura route developer Mylan Sykora said at the time of Gullichs first ascent that Ghettoblaster was a route on which no other German climber had even the slightest chance.
The route follows a streak of 1-pad deep water pockets up a 6-meter stretch of 25-degree overhanging flawless blue/gray limestone on the west face of Rabenfels. The climbing is technical and bouldery, requiring long precise deadpoints between pockets. The crux is a huge lock-off or deadpoint from one deep mono to another.