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Routes in Sterling Pass

Bellyful of Moonshine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best Laid Plans T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Confederacy of Dunces T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Counterfeit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Der Ficken (aka Jesus on a Rubber Cross) T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Do Wrong Right T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heart and Soul S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Moonshiner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nobodys Dirty Business T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pocket full of Horses T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Safecracker- aka "Firecracker" T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sterling Sliver T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA Hoffman/Green, FA Hoffman/Frye
Page Views: 417 total, 11/month
Shared By: Dean Hoffman on Dec 2, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A great addition to the Pass. This two pitch line climbs the obvious hand crack off the right side of the trail opposite of Counterfeit. Pitch one starts off a little scrappy, but after about 20 feet or so you are established at the base of the splitter corner. .75s through a small bulge (easier than it looks!) the crack just gets better and better becoming perfect hands to large hands up to a bolted belay in the "V". Pitch 2 starts off in your face with a tight hands/ringlocks crux section that thankfully culminates with a thank god locker hand jam. Hands to bigger hands to a short section of low angle OW puts you on the sandbox ledge. Clamber through the sand to a nice gear belay. Rap anchors are down and climbers left from belay but don't work to belay off of. (While the 50 or so feet above the ledge look enticing, inspection from above revealed that it was much lower quality than the first two pitches and we opted to call it. Feel free to explore...)
Oh, and the rock here is solid, but sandy... hey its Oak Creek Canyon enjoy the free exfoliation!

Location

Look for faint bushwacky trail on right switch back below Counterfeit. Route climbs obvious hand crack to right side of pillar feature.
2 raps put you on the ground.

Protection

Doubles from .3-#3 Camalot, extra .5-#2, one #4
P1 Bolted Belay, P2 .75, and smallish gear, gear belay
handful of slings
60m rope
Dean Hoffman  
 
All ya had to do was ask Paul! Come out and I'll give you the nickel tour! Jan 22, 2015
Hey, where's the Pics? Jan 15, 2015