Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Henze, Kevin Carmichael, & Tejal Parikh (1990)
Page Views: 82 total · 2/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Dec 1, 2014
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Delicately climb a less-than-vertical face using small edges and nubs past two bolts. When the angle steepens pull through a short powerful crux on pockets and edges to obtain a rest at a platform. Two short sections of face and a second platform lead to the chains.

Butchwax is a pleasant enough romp on interesting features but ultimately too short and inconsistent to leave a lasting impression. Depending on your body type and climbing strengths the route may feel a bit soft for the established grade.

Location

Butchwax is located on the third pinnacle from the west. Butchwax climbs the east face while Flat Top climbs the south.

Protection

6 bolts to chain anchors. The bolts are stamped with the initials 'BWM'. Since the anchors are recessed, long slings and rappelling are recommended.

While Squeezing The Lemmon II suggests a light rack, I believe this is a fully bolted sport climb. A small cam or nut could be placed between bolts 5 and 6 but it would not serve much purpose.

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