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Routes in Canines & Lobo Wall

Bierhenkels For Bazzi's S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butchwax S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dogmatic S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flat Top S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Foreign Affair S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Card S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippo Space Invaders S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hippos Are Pottamus Too S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hosed Mouse Driver S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Dog S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leaners Permit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Lobo Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nickel Puppies T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Parvo Loading S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Puddin' Britches S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schroedinger's Cat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Screwed the Pooch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True Grit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Old Dogs At The Hydrant S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Valdez is Coming T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Henze, Kevin Carmichael, & Tejal Parikh (1990)
Page Views: 55 total, 2/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Dec 1, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Delicately climb a less-than-vertical face using small edges and nubs past two bolts. When the angle steepens pull through a short powerful crux on pockets and edges to obtain a rest at a platform. Two short sections of face and a second platform lead to the chains.

Butchwax is a pleasant enough romp on interesting features but ultimately too short and inconsistent to leave a lasting impression. Depending on your body type and climbing strengths the route may feel a bit soft for the established grade.

Location

Butchwax is located on the third pinnacle from the west. Butchwax climbs the east face while Flat Top climbs the south.

Protection

6 bolts to chain anchors. The bolts are stamped with the initials 'BWM'. Since the anchors are recessed, long slings and rappelling are recommended.

While Squeezing The Lemmon II suggests a light rack, I believe this is a fully bolted sport climb. A small cam or nut could be placed between bolts 5 and 6 but it would not serve much purpose.

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