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An American, a German and a Kiwi Walked Into a Bar...

5.10a, Trad, 65 ft,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Hagen Telg, Andrew Sykes, Jason Halladay
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Capulin Canyon… > Capulin Canyon > Hinterlands

Description

Surprisingly accessible and fun wide climbing leads to a chimney in an alcove. Stem and chimney up easy, featured rock for ten feet to the wide crack and the first gear, a #6 camalot. Squirm up the offset wide crack for another ten feet to a wedged chockstone. You can get gear around the chockstone. A few more feet of wide climbing takes you to the alcove and chimney above. Easy but unprotected chimneying gets you out of the alcove and to the anchors.

Location

Obvious, somewhat unappealing-looking (yet quite fun) wide crack to chimney left of the golden face.

Protection

Very minimal rack. #6 camalot, #2 camalot (or a big sling around wedged chockstone.) Cold shut anchors at top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the anchors. November 2014.
[Hide Photo] At the anchors. November 2014.