Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Deadman's Buttress

Chalk is Cheap T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chasin' Skirt T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chopper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Passenger , The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Dawn of an Error T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon's Lair T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gin and Techtonics T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Head Stack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peccadillo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Program Director T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shit Eatin' Grin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spawn of a Terror T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Teacher Conference T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 11 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pamela Shanti Pack and Pat Kingsbury
Page Views: 2,354 total, 63/month
Shared By: Shanti on Nov 27, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Stunning two pitch route -- fingers to offwidth. The second pitch features a wildly twisting, offset offwidth helix referred to as the "squiggles."

Location

Dark Passenger is on Dead Man's Buttress one system to the right of Dragon's Lair. You can't miss it as the second pitch is quite unique.

Protection

Pitch 1 (5.12) .5 through BD 5 and two fixed pins.
Pitch 2 (5.11) Bolts, fixed stopper and gear to BD 6. This pitch is R rated if you are too short to reach the right crack.

Photos

The folks who recently repeated Dark Passenger suggest I point out that the run-out on the second pitch is approximately 40-50' feet once you get into the squiggles if you are too short to place gear in the right crack. It's a clean fall but would be scary. Just a heads up. Apr 26, 2017