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Routes in G.o.T Crag

"Little Boy" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Balls Deep T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Enola Gay T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frostfangs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gift, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just the Tip T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Long Claw S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Needle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reek T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reynold's Rap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stormborn (Sunspear var.) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunspear S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tower of the Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wall, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Lance Milo Cagle
Page Views: 229 total, 6/month
Shared By: Milo on Nov 27, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Dihedral on arete. Shorter and easier than the other G.O.T. routes. If this one was 30 feet longer, It would be a 4 star route. Beautiful chocolate brown dihedral up to a block. Traverse right into a second dihedral, take this up to a roof, that is avoided by climbing on the right hand wall. Super fun!

Location

Follow trail to G.O.T. proper. Scoot around to the right for Balls deep thru "Little Boy". This is the farthest route on G.O.T front face. This route actually faces North and shares the same arete as Enola gay.

Protection

6 bolts. Single rack to 3".

Photos

outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.7
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.7
Nice rock, but minus one star for bolting the cracks.

Definitely cross to the right underneath that giant detached block about half way up and don't place any cams behind it. Don't even think about liebacking straight up the left side of it. A whipper onto a #3 Camalot in the crack behind that block would almost certainly dislodge it. That thing is not held on by much, belayer beware! Jun 22, 2017