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Routes in Tofana di Rozes

Da Pazzo vecchio Pazzo T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South Face Buttress 1, a.k.a. “South Arete” T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
South Face, Buttress 2, Pilastro Route (Constantini/Apollonio) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
South Face, Buttress 2, Pillar Rib (Constantini/Ghedina) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spigalo Sam T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Spigolo Sam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Via Classica (South Face) (Dimai/Eötvös Route) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft, 14 pitches, Grade V
FA: Massimo Da Pozzo, Natasha Da Posso, Samuele Majoni 2011
Page Views: 138 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tim Wolfe on Nov 26, 2014
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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“Spigalo” means arête in Italian. This route essentially follows the arête on the left side of the south face of the second buttress of Tofana Di Rozes. The route parallels the classic (and busy) 1946 Costantini/Ghedina “Pillar Rib” route found in most guide books and this web site. Spigalo Sam’s crux 7th pitch (6c) crosses the Pillar rib and continues to the right of that route for two more pitches then traverses left into the classic route for about two pitches and finally finishes an independent line out right before moving up into the exit gully (or rappelling). All belays are equipped for rappel
The route is a fairly serious line with bold climbing. It has occasional bolts supplemented by traditional gear and at times tricky route finding. Be ready for some hard 5.10 moves a fair distance above any gear although the crux pitch (6c+) is well protected at the hardest moves.
Pitch 1: Climb up to the bolt then up to the flake and crack. Under cling and layoff the flake then head up and slightly right looking for the second bolt. From here climb boldly out right and up heading for the point of a pillar that is on the arête proper. 30-40 meters, 5.10c (6b)
Pitch 2: Climb up the arête over several roofs following occasional bolts. 20 meters, 5.10c (6b)
Pitch 3: A long easy pitch with rare bolts essentially straight up the arête on the path of least resistance. 55 meters, 5.6 (4+)
Pitch 4: Slightly left then up just right of some roofs belaying just prior to a triangular roof. 30 meters, 5.10 (6b)
Pitch 5: Climb just left of the triangular roof climb then up and slightly right 25 meters, 5.10 (6B)
Pitch 6: Straight up ending just right of some roofs. 20 meters, 5.10 (6b)
Pitch 7: Climb the bolted yellow rock up and right to a large roof with a crack in it. Clip the fixed pin or bolt over the roof. A very strenuous move gets you over the roof and is followed by a run-out section (look for a piton and some threads about 4-5 meters above the roof). Continue a long distance to the belay crossing the traverse of the Constantini-Ghedina route. 50 meters, 5.11c/d (6c+)
Pitch 8: Steep juggy but a bit run-out climbing up and slightly right then over a roof leads to a belay. 20 meters 5.10a (6a)
Pitch 9: Continue up to a ledge below yellow rock. 25 m 5.10a (6a), consider rappelling from here unless the summit is your goal.
Pitch 10: Traverse left then join classic route and climb up to right of large roof and belay. 45 m 5.5 (4)
Pitch 11: Continue in the corner/gully just left of the main face moving just to the edge near the end of the pitch. 50 meters 5.5 (4)
Pitch 12 and 13: Continue up on the edge of the face for two pitches independent of the classic route, or move slightly left and finish on that route. 5.9, 5.6 100 meters.
Pitch 14: Work your way up and left into the gully and continue to the top. 100 meters 4th class.


Parking: Park at Rifugio Dibona near the foot of the south face of Tofana Di Rozes. The road up to the Rifugio is well marked and is probably 10 kilometers uphill from Cortina d’Ampezzo or downhill from Passo Falzerego.
Approach: Exit the back of the parking lot and head up the trail that goes left towards Tofana di Rozes (Trail 403 to Rifugio Giussani). Walk up the switch backs about 30 minutes until you see an obvious path heading left across the talus towards the base of buttress 1 and 2. Walk along the base of both buttresses. Just past the second buttress turn uphill into the shady West Face (shady if you start early). Head up the gully 20-30 meters. On the right side of the gully (West face of the buttress) there is a wet corner capped by roofs. The route starts just right of these roofs – look for a bolt about 30 feet up the wall that is below a flake with a crack in it.
Descent: Two options – rap with double ropes once tired, climb to the top. The descent from the top can be misleading especially if snow is present. DO NOT get suckered into going down too far. You must go up and over a col to the opposite side of the mountain to prevent being cliffed out in vertical kitty litter by going down early. From the top of the climb traverse a long distance laterally and at times slightly down until you find some painted red dots – follow these up (those going down come from the first pillar exit). Go up all the way to the col you see above and right. Go over the col then down the steep scree to the Rifigio Giussani at which point trail 403 is present and is a huge smooth path all the way back to the car.


8-10 quick draws, a single rack of cams 0.4 to 2 inches, a few wires, many long slings, a couple threads.