Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Solstice Cave

Essence of Darkness S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Eternal Sunshine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fireball S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flamer S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hail Bop S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hail Mary S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hot Tamale S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Infernal Justice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
It Knocks Your Socks Off S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
It Put's the Buff On S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Scorcher S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solstice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Straight Into Frantic Oblivion S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Total Eclipse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Kevin Wilkinson - 2005/2006
Page Views: 398 total, 11/month
Shared By: Train4life on Nov 26, 2014
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

Hail Mary is a fine route with a 6 foot roof that looks easier than it is. The route starts off with easy entry moves for a bolt to a jug below the roof. Make a clip off this jug and then breathe, hesitate, breathe again and try to power through the "hail mary" roof. It's probably in the V6-8 range. Grab the best pockets you can find and make a big move over the roof to a giant 3-finger pocket. It sounds like most people dyno for the pocket above the roof but I found a way to static the move off a two finger pocket below the roof with a tricky upside down toe hook. From the pocket, make the third clip and fight and claw your way up another bolt of 5.12 climbing. Hit the right jug around the bulge and it's all over folks. The next two bolts of climbing to the anchor is an easy 5.10. Enjoy the route!

Location

Easy to find. Stand in the solstice cave and look to the climber's right. You will see a 6 foot roof! Get on it!

Protection

Sport: 4 QD's with 2 permadraws in the roof!
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Posted most of the shots I have from the FA. What a mixed weekend. Kevin put up two FA's and a guy fell off Fossil wall and broke his ankle, girl belaying him had those long acrylic finger nails. All while being stalked by the mountain lion. Mar 21, 2017
Train4life
Boulder, CO
 
Train4life   Boulder, CO
 
I disagree with the 12b grade. But we are splitting hairs. It's a very peculiar one move wonder. If you are a strong boulderer it will feel soft. I felt it was hard and then went and flashed Eclipse 12d to the left right after this. So I don't know grades but it felt hard for me! Feb 14, 2017
Jerry432
odessa texas
 
Jerry432   odessa texas
 
A fun route for sure but I have to disagree on the 13 rating. If you know the beta and climb moderates its 12b at most. No dyno necessary granted you have worked out the beta. I really enjoy this climb as the crux kicks me in the teeth evrytime I get on it. May 26, 2015
Train4life
Boulder, CO
 
Train4life   Boulder, CO
 
Yes, sorry to downgrade it but the people I asked down at LCC all said around 12b! I was shocked, I thought it was pretty hard but I'm pretty terrible at bouldering. If you could put up those photo's that would be incredible! Will you tell me what he rated it, that way I can just keep it at his grade! Apr 30, 2015
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Kevin Wilkinson put up the first ascent of this in 2005/6. Originally he rated it 12d, but was projecting 14's at the time.

Watched one guy do six or seven one arm pullups trying to hit the crux. I've got shots of that FA around here somewhere. Mar 23, 2015