Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 40 ft|
|FA:||Kevin Wilkinson - 2005/2006|
|Page Views:||509 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Train4life on Nov 26, 2014|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details
The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon.
Hail Mary is a fine route with a 6 foot roof that looks easier than it is. The route starts off with easy entry moves for a bolt to a jug below the roof. Make a clip off this jug and then breathe, hesitate, breathe again and try to power through the "hail mary" roof. It's probably in the V6-8 range. Grab the best pockets you can find and make a big move over the roof to a giant 3-finger pocket. It sounds like most people dyno for the pocket above the roof but I found a way to static the move off a two finger pocket below the roof with a tricky upside down toe hook. From the pocket, make the third clip and fight and claw your way up another bolt of 5.12 climbing. Hit the right jug around the bulge and it's all over folks. The next two bolts of climbing to the anchor is an easy 5.10. Enjoy the route!
Easy to find. Stand in the solstice cave and look to the climber's right. You will see a 6 foot roof! Get on it!