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Routes in Richard Wagner Fels

Adolf Gottner Ged.-Weg S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Apokalypse S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fight Gravity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kleine Westwand S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magnet S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Rechter Einstieg S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rheingold S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Kurt Albert, 1982
Page Views: 102 total · 2/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 25, 2014
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

Hailed as the Frankenjura’s first 5.13, this Kurt Albert masterpiece is among the most sought-after sport climbs in Germany. The crux reach move is so infamous, that for years there were two red lines marked on the kitchen wall of Kurt Albert & Wolgang Gullich’s home in Oberschollenbach that showed the wingspan required to execute the move. Those who lacked the required reach would be forced to use the significantly harder beta sussed out by Gullich on the second ascent (...and hence the split grade given here). Understandably, this only seems to have increased the mystique of the climb, and when you add the brilliant rock and memorable moves, this route must be considered among the most classic 5.13 sport climbs in the world.

The route begins with runout face climbing to reach a good rest below the intimidating roof. Taller climbers can surmount this obstacle with a huge reach from the break to a massive jug, whereas others will be forced to use a thin, three-finger undercling crimp at the lip of the roof. More big reaches are required to get established on the headwall at a set of jugs. Fear not, many more difficult moves lurk above. Continue on, fighting the growing pump, making long spans between classic Frankenjura sinker pockets to reach a hidden anchor at the top of the wall.

Is the Magnet at the anchor, or is the Magnet on the ground? That depends on your reach, your strength, your stamina, and your skill!

Location

Immediately right of Fight Gravity on the west face of Richard Wagner Fels.

Protection

5 bolts to a hidden 2 bolt anchor above the headwall. It's a long, unprotected run to the first bolt.

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