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Routes in Richard Wagner Fels

Adolf Gottner Ged.-Weg S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Apokalypse S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fight Gravity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kleine Westwand S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magnet S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Rechter Einstieg S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rheingold S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Kurt Albert, 1982
Page Views: 236 total, 6/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 25, 2014
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

Magnet’s little brother is not nearly as hard, but every bit as good as its slightly more famous counterpart. This is among the most popular 8+’s in Germany, and the Schwertner Guide claims these two lines are “among the most coveted” in the Frankenjura. It’s easy to see why.

Fight Gravity is a classic jughaul, with impeccable rock, unbelievable jugs, and an awesome position perched high above the picturesque valley. The climbing is not cruxy, instead offering a steady building pump on the slightly overhanging headwall. This must have seemed quite futuristic when it was first climbed by Kurt Albert in 1982.

Make easy moves along the wide crack to a good stance below the roof. Jugs in the crack take the sting out of this obstacle, but just over the lip the climber is forced out right onto the overhanging panel. Hero pulls work up the leaning shield of limestone, cranking between mail slots and flakes in an unforgettable battle against the Earth’s pull.

Location

Fourth bolted route from the left, on the west face of Richard Wagner Fels.

Protection

5 bolts to a hidden anchor. A couple long draws or shoulder length slings are helpful to reduce rope drag.

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