Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dennis Oakeshott and Verne Clevenger, 1974
Page Views: 374 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Nov 24, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Named for the brand of milk you could buy at the Village store. The upper three pitches of this route are pretty fun. Unfortunately, the second pitch is 5.8 and unprotected. As Verne put it, 'to keep the riff raff off.' Luckily, there are a lot of other moderately protected routes on the Apron for those who don't like death leads.

Pitch 1(5.6) - climb a crack or 3rd class to the right to a ledge with a small tree and belay.

Pitch 2(5.8) - friction straight up, with no pro, to a two-bolt belay. Note - it is possible to bypass the first two pitches by climbing in from the Grack Left Side route.

Pitch 3(5.10a)- head straight up to a small ledge then traverse right past two bolts to a small left facing dihedral then climb up to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 4(5.10b) - climb up and slightly left past 4 bolts then traverse left(crux) past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 5(5.10a) - climb up past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Location

This route starts 50-75 feet left of the left side of the Grack. Several double rope rappels get you down. Bring extra runners to beef up the anchors and cut out the worn tat.

Protection

You might want to bring a selection of stoppers and small cams for the first two pitches(depending on which way you go).

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