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Routes in Monday Morning Slab

Coonyard Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monday Morning Slab, Harry Daley Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monday Morning Slab, Left Side T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Monday Morning Slab, Right Side T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Variation on a Theme T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bill Amborn, Joe McKeown and Rich Calderwood 9/60 FFA Chuck Ostin and Frank Sacherer 1961
Page Views: 1,679 total · 35/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Nov 24, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is the route that started it all on GPA. It is named for Yvon Chouinard though he was not associated with the climb.

Pitch 1(5.9) - reach up and grab a pocket and mantle up. This is the technical crux. Climb up to a small ledge and belay.

Pitch 2(5.8) - climb up the right side of the ledge then up past a bolt to a small pinnacle with a bolt and belay.

Pitch 3(5.9) - traverse left to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 4(5.9) - this pitch used to be one of the scariest pitches on the apron featuring 40' of unprotected 5.8/5.9 climbing, but a bolt has been added over the years which has tamed it a bit.

Pitch 5(5.6) - climb up a short, right facing dihedral to the top of the pinnacle.

Location

Start this route from the top of Monday Morning Slab.
Three double rope rappels will get you back to the top of MMS.

Protection

Bring a set of stoppers and cams up to 2" to supplement the bolts.

Photos

Ryan K.
 
Ryan K.  
 
Pitch One: Up to the bolt, then angle right and up toward corner to get gear in. Easier moves in corner lead to second bolt and traverse to left. Belay using tree and bolt to left of tree. 5.9

Pitch Two: Start right of tree. Climb up to corner/bulge feature, pop some pieces in (including a 3 camalot), and then commit to the slab. Head up over the bulge, aiming for the left facing corner. I never found the bolt shown on the topo, but there's a small finger sized piece you can get in twenty feet above the bulge before entering the corner. Fun liebacking in corner, then head right past optional bolt to belay. 5.8 PG 13

Pitch Three: Topo shows two options. We took the lower route, which is better protected. Traverse left past two bolts and some small gear, then up to ledge visible from pitch two belay. Slick rock past second bolt. 5.9 PG 13

Pitch Four: Twenty-five feet of unprotected 5.8 slab gets you to the single bolt on the pitch. Continue up aiming for a bowl feature, get some pro in, then up to belay. 5.8 R

Pitch Five: Easy slab to a right facing corner to the top of Coonyard. 5.7

Belay locations are all stellar. Most bolts at anchors leave something to be desired. Single rack offset cams(all sizes) and single rack regular cams, small to 3 camalot. Possible to link 1&2 and 4&5 with diligent runner use and/or backcleaning. May 3, 2015
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
Both the original description and Ryan's description sound a bit off to me. First, it makes no sense to belay after pitch 1. It's only 40 feet and the anchor is shit (single old bolt hiding behind the bush). Rather link 1+2 (160 feet together) going right from the ledge at the top of 1. Not sure where the #3 camalot would go, I only got in a yellow alien, then an upwards-driven pin where the topo shows a bolt. Gear belay at the base of the splitter corner next to the fixed stopper, again no bolt. The 3rd pitch doesn't continue up the corner as Ryan wrote, but rather traverses directly left for 40 feet. There are no bolts OR gear on this pitch, just as Reid guide shows. So, to make it somewhat protectable we downclibed ALL the way to the obvious ledge, over and then straight up to the belay. This way minimizes the swing for both climbers.

End of pitch 3 is the first solid bolted anchor, so you'd have to leave gear if you want to bail earlier. I don't know how pitch 4 was "tamed" by addition of the bolts. It still features a 5.8 X section at the start with 40 feet of blankness to the first and only bolt on the pitch. Apr 18, 2016
Ryan K.
 
Ryan K.  
 
Yea Vlad! Glad to see others getting on this route. The #3 is the piece you get if you head straight up from the P1 anchor. Sounds like you went right. The Reid guide shows P2 belay on a little pedestal at the top of the left facing corner. There are two bolts there of the same quality as the rest of the anchor bolts on the route (not great).

Someone added two bolts to the P3 traverse, and there are a few options for small pro on the pitch too. May 10, 2016
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
Yeah, I went right at the top of pitch 1. Also set up the belay at the bottom of the corner (top of p 2), not at the top. It perfectly matched the topo and so did pitch 3. I didn't even see anything at the top of that corner or higher up where you would traverse left. Definitely sounds like we took different routes on top of 2 and pitch 3. May 10, 2016
Back in the mid 70's, Glacier Point Apron was always my favorite location in "The Valley" and Coonyard was one of the best routes there !

The one thing that I most recollect about Coonyard, is that Malcolm and I climbed it with dual 120' ropes to manage the raps.

I was the first to go, and got to the first station and told Malcolm I think we can make it the next. Bad idea. I was at the end of the ropes with 20-30' separating me from the anchors, so I "calmly" rapped off the end and down climbed to the next anchor and just stood there and waited for Malcolm to rap down to me.

Malcolm re-payed me by rapping off the end of the rope, in the dark, a year later, on our descent from "Deep Throat".

How we survived the 70's, I'll never know, but they make "Epic" stories now. Apr 14, 2018
AAJ 1961: "Glacier Point Apron, Coonyard Pinnacle Route: [by Yvon Chouinard] "From the top of Monday Morning slab, the Glacier Pont Apron rises up at only a 65° angle, but it is very smooth and crackles. After several attempts, Layton Kor, Rich Calderwood, Bill Amborn, Jeff Foote, and I managed to push the route to the "oasis," a spring of good water coming out of the cliff at the top of the apron. The climbing is essentially free except for a huge pendulum. This climb rates with the hardest free climbs in the country in length, difficulty, and lack of protection." Apr 27, 2018

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