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A Mother's Lament

5.10c R, Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Rab Carrington and Rik Reider, September 1972
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > I. Glacier Poin… > 3. The Grack Area
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Description

Another classic Apron Route, but not as good as Tightrope. There are two variations on the crux pitch(4). The FA party went left into a right facing dihedral/scoop(5.10c). One can also head up and right past a single bolt(5.11) to the belay, but this variation is quite runout.

Pitch 1(5.9) - climb the dihedral to a two-bolt belay. This pitch can be wet after a rain.

Pitch 2(5.7) - continue up the dihedral to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 3(5.7) - more of the same to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 4(5.10c or 5.11) - climb up and slightly left past two bolts. Either head up and left then back right(5.10c, gear) or up and right(5.11, one bolt) to a single piton anchor.

Pitch 5(5.9) - Basically no pro to a single-bolt anchor. If this bolt hasn't been replaced it is a poorly drilled 1/4" Rawl.

Pitch 6(5.10a) - if you are dumb enough to get this far, climb straight up to a bolt then traverse straight left past another bolt to another single bolt anchor.

Location

This route is located about 50-100 feet right of the Calf in a prominent left facing dihedral.

We rapped the route, but the Reid guide indicates that their might be a direct rappel route down from the top of pitch 6. Either way, bring slings to beef up the anchors and please cut out the bad tat.

Protection

Bring stoppers and cams up to 2". The dihedral on the first three pitches eats small stuff.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

E.C. Joe on A Mother's Lament, November 1975. Photo: Joel Matta, E.C. Joe Collection
[Hide Photo] E.C. Joe on A Mother's Lament, November 1975. Photo: Joel Matta, E.C. Joe Collection

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bob Crawford
tucson az
[Hide Comment] The fourth pitch originally had no bolts for pro, you were 75+ feet out on the crux step to the right ! I think Pete Livesey led the second ascent, with a knifeblade under a flake just before the crux. His second broke the flake removing the pin, so when I did the third ascent a few weeks later I lead it sans pro just like Rik Rieder and Rab did. I am still in awe of those guys! best regards Bob Crawford Valdez Alpine Club... Mar 8, 2023
ec joe
California
[Hide Comment] I led this in November of 1975. There were no bolts on the crux. I had only been climbing like 16 months. What was I thinking? The slab under my E.B.s squeaked like it was glass. I actually was sad to see year later where the pitches were shortened and bolts added. May 14, 2023