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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> I. Glacier Poin…
> 3. The Grack Area
A Mother's Lament
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in 3. The Grack Area
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[Redacted] T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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A Mother's Lament T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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An Udder Way T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Bear, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cow-Center Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cow-Left Side, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cow-Right Side, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Grack - Center, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grack - Left Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grack Wrong T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grack, Marginal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Grack, Right Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Hoppy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Jack the Zipper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ochre Fields T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Psychic Energy S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tightrope T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Transistor Sister T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Valley Hizeman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Rab Carrington and Rik Reider, September 1972 |
| Page Views: | 1,389 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Nov 24, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron
Details
According to Yosemite's website in 2016, Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service does not recommend climbing there due to recent and ongoing rockfall.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Another classic Apron Route, but not as good as Tightrope. There are two variations on the crux pitch(4). The FA party went left into a right facing dihedral/scoop(5.10c). One can also head up and right past a single bolt(5.11) to the belay, but this variation is quite runout.
Pitch 1(5.9) - climb the dihedral to a two-bolt belay. This pitch can be wet after a rain.
Pitch 2(5.7) - continue up the dihedral to a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 3(5.7) - more of the same to a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 4(5.10c or 5.11) - climb up and slightly left past two bolts. Either head up and left then back right(5.10c, gear) or up and right(5.11, one bolt) to a single piton anchor.
Pitch 5(5.9) - Basically no pro to a single-bolt anchor. If this bolt hasn't been replaced it is a poorly drilled 1/4" Rawl.
Pitch 6(5.10a) - if you are dumb enough to get this far, climb straight up to a bolt then traverse straight left past another bolt to another single bolt anchor.
Pitch 1(5.9) - climb the dihedral to a two-bolt belay. This pitch can be wet after a rain.
Pitch 2(5.7) - continue up the dihedral to a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 3(5.7) - more of the same to a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 4(5.10c or 5.11) - climb up and slightly left past two bolts. Either head up and left then back right(5.10c, gear) or up and right(5.11, one bolt) to a single piton anchor.
Pitch 5(5.9) - Basically no pro to a single-bolt anchor. If this bolt hasn't been replaced it is a poorly drilled 1/4" Rawl.
Pitch 6(5.10a) - if you are dumb enough to get this far, climb straight up to a bolt then traverse straight left past another bolt to another single bolt anchor.
Location
This route is located about 50-100 feet right of the Calf in a prominent left facing dihedral.
We rapped the route, but the Reid guide indicates that their might be a direct rappel route down from the top of pitch 6. Either way, bring slings to beef up the anchors and please cut out the bad tat.
We rapped the route, but the Reid guide indicates that their might be a direct rappel route down from the top of pitch 6. Either way, bring slings to beef up the anchors and please cut out the bad tat.
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