Type: Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rab Carrington and Rik Reider, September 1972
Page Views: 559 total · 11/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Nov 24, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Another classic Apron Route, but not as good as Tightrope. There are two variations on the crux pitch(4). The FA party went left into a right facing dihedral/scoop(5.10c). One can also head up and right past a single bolt(5.11) to the belay, but this variation is quite runout.

Pitch 1(5.9) - climb the dihedral to a two-bolt belay. This pitch can be wet after a rain.

Pitch 2(5.7) - continue up the dihedral to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 3(5.7) - more of the same to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 4(5.10c or 5.11) - climb up and slightly left past two bolts. Either head up and left then back right(5.10c, gear) or up and right(5.11, one bolt) to a single piton anchor.

Pitch 5(5.9) - Basically no pro to a single-bolt anchor. If this bolt hasn't been replaced it is a poorly drilled 1/4" Rawl.

Pitch 6(5.10a) - if you are dumb enough to get this far, climb straight up to a bolt then traverse straight left past another bolt to another single bolt anchor.

Location

This route is located about 50-100 feet right of the Calf in a prominent left facing dihedral.

We rapped the route, but the Reid guide indicates that their might be a direct rappel route down from the top of pitch 6. Either way, bring slings to beef up the anchors and please cut out the bad tat.

Protection

Bring stoppers and cams up to 2". The dehedral on the first three pitches eats small stuff.

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