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Routes in Glacier Point Apron - Left

A Mother's Lament T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Cow-Center Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cow-Left Side, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cow-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grack - Center, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grack - Left Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grack Wrong T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grack, Marginal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grack, Right Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Hoppy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tightrope T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Valley Hizeman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rab Carrington and Rik Reider, September 1972
Page Views: 516 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Nov 24, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Another classic Apron Route, but not as good as Tightrope. There are two variations on the crux pitch(4). The FA party went left into a right facing dihedral/scoop(5.10c). One can also head up and right past a single bolt(5.11) to the belay, but this variation is quite runout.

Pitch 1(5.9) - climb the dihedral to a two-bolt belay. This pitch can be wet after a rain.

Pitch 2(5.7) - continue up the dihedral to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 3(5.7) - more of the same to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 4(5.10c or 5.11) - climb up and slightly left past two bolts. Either head up and left then back right(5.10c, gear) or up and right(5.11, one bolt) to a single piton anchor.

Pitch 5(5.9) - Basically no pro to a single-bolt anchor. If this bolt hasn't been replaced it is a poorly drilled 1/4" Rawl.

Pitch 6(5.10a) - if you are dumb enough to get this far, climb straight up to a bolt then traverse straight left past another bolt to another single bolt anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route is located about 50-100 feet right of the Calf in a prominent left facing dihedral.

We rapped the route, but the Reid guide indicates that their might be a direct rappel route down from the top of pitch 6. Either way, bring slings to beef up the anchors and please cut out the bad tat.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bring stoppers and cams up to 2". The dehedral on the first three pitches eats small stuff.


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