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Routes in Glacier Point Apron - Left

A Mother's Lament T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Cow-Center Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cow-Left Side, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cow-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grack - Center, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grack - Left Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grack Wrong T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grack, Marginal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grack, Right Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Hoppy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tightrope T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Valley Hizeman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Verne Clevenger, Tom Carter, et. al. 1975
Page Views: 682 total, 18/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Nov 24, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is the archetypal Apron route. Hard climbing and very bold runouts. It is possible to hit the ground from 300' up if you blow the final moves to the belay at the top of pitch 2. The hardest moves are found on the fifth pitch, but they are reasonably well-protected and are more like a boulder problem.

Pitch 1(5.9) - climb past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2(5.8) - basically no pro with some delicate friction for the last 50' to a two-bolt belay. Don't fall.

Pitch 3(5.10b) - head straight up 25' on friction to a bolt then traverse right to a second bolt. Head up past a third bolt to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 4(5.9) - head up and slightly left past a bolt and several small corners to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 5(5.11b) - climb past 3 bolts and the bouldery crux to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 6(5.10c) - a short pitch past two bolts to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 7(5.11) - climb down and left at the start then up and left past three bolts to the belay. The belay might still be a single, 1/4" bolt. Act accordingly.

Location

The route starts about 50-100 feet left of the Cow. Rappel the route with two 50M ropes. Bring slings to back up the anchors and cut out the old tat.

Protection

Bolts protect most of the route, but bring a rack of stoppers and cams up to 2" just in case.

Photos

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john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I guess you could blow it on P2...but then again you don't belong on the climb if you do. Dec 26, 2015