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Routes in Squeeze Ledge

50% Chance of Rain S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eve's Drop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flake route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glenn's 10 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lillian's Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Chesse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stoke Tank FULL T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Velveeta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildflower S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: David Frasier
Page Views: 322 total, 9/month
Shared By: TJ Souther on Nov 24, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

You will be facing this route as soon as you top out the scramble up to the squeeze ledge. I found myself climbing the crack for the majority of the climb and having to step out onto the face to make some very awkward clips although the guidebook says the route follows the face. I wouldn't bother to climb it again as it was poorly bolted, would make a better trad climb.

Location

Bolted line directly in front of you after topping out the scramble up to the ledge, farthest bolted line to the right on the ledge

Protection

5 bolts to anchors (2 bolts with quicklinks)

Photos

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Alex James
Ballard, WA
  5.11+
Alex James   Ballard, WA
  5.11+
The bolt line for this route is terrible. The face following the bolts is really really hard like 11 at least. The bolt hangers are also rusting and I'm not sure I trust falling on them. If you climb the crack, thats pretty easy but thats also a seperate trad route. Its also intimidating and hard to try and traverse out and clip the bolts from the crack. This route is totally misrepresented in the guidebook and should be changed in the next edition. Feb 20, 2017
Thierry
Murfreesboro, TN
Thierry   Murfreesboro, TN
The DCA says: "The grade is 11 if you climb the face and don't use the crack to the right" Nov 28, 2016
paul.adams.3
Knoxville, TN
 
paul.adams.3   Knoxville, TN
 
You're probably thinking this route would be a good warm up. So was I, as I led up, and got sucked into the crack, which would be the only way to climb this route at 5.7. I ended up running it out past the second to last bolt since it was near impossible to clip from the crack. That along with the fact that the bolts are horribly rusted out make this one to avoid Aug 20, 2015