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Routes in The Double Clutching Wall

11:11 (AKA "Welcome to the Waterfall") T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Block Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Checkin' The Oil Direct T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Checkin' the Oil T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chronic, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Comin In Hot T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crux Deluxe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Clutching T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Helix T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
In a Blunt T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Kool Whip Crackle Fizz, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rude Awakening T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Super Chronic T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
SwitchBlade T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Terminal Mocha T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thin Faith T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Wolverine T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: D Bloom, J Unema
Page Views: 307 total, 8/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Nov 23, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Checkin' the Oil DDD (Dirty Dipstick Direct) takes the direct line straight through a beautiful ringlock splitter, a tough boulder problem, and a pumpy finger-crack finish. Begin below the ringlock splitter, climb to it and enjoy the crisp texture of the locks. Gain a small footledge and stem left, traversing slightly to gain the next stance at the base of the business. Plug some gear and pull hard through crimps and slopy sidepulling to reach the fingercrack up and left. Hold on through interesting fingerlocking to the finish.

Location

Far right end of the Double Clutching Wall. Begin directly below the ringlock splitter left of Terminal Mocha and right of Block Party.

Protection

Double cams from 00 c3 through .75 c4. Single 000 c3 and several small nuts.

Photos

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Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Originally TR'ed by Kyle E? Mar 23, 2017