Cauthorn-Wilson
WI4,
Trad, Ice, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
FA: Dan Cauthorn and Tim Wilson
Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> Cutthroat Peak
Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Climb snow or neve for roughly 400 feet to reach a WI3-WI3+ ice pitch. Climb this to a fixed piton anchor at the base of the crux pitch, which is sustained WI4 for a stretch before it slightly eases off to WI3+. From the top of the crux pitch, head for the ridgeline in three or four pitches that may be snow, ice, or mixed.
Many parties choose to descend from the ridgeline on rock anchors (some fixed) or possible V-threads to enable an easy descent to their skis or snowshoes at the base of the route. Instead, you can choose to climb several more moderate(?) pitches to the summit. Protection may be hard to get on these pitches, which go at 5.4 in the summer. From the summit, the West Ridge descent may be preferable to a descent of the route.
Location
East face of Cutthroat Peak. Approach as for South Buttress, but cross over the rib extending south from the S Buttress into the basin East of Cutthroat Peak. The route is obvious (the big couloir on the East Face), but be very cautious of avalanche conditions on these East-facing slopes that get sun for most of the day.
Protection
Screws, nuts, pitons, cams to 1". Emphasis on small gear. Two 60m ropes.
Season
This route gets a lot of sun. The best time for an attempt is as soon as possible after the annual opening of Highway 20, usually in April or May.
![Nearly at the base of the first technical pitch]()
[Hide Photo] Nearly at the base of the first technical pitch
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