Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Wolfgang Gullich, 1984
Page Views: 811 total · 10/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2014
Admins: Shawn Heath

You & This Route

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This stellar line of sinker pockets was Wolfgang Gullich’s friendly response to John Bachar’s groundbreaking ascent of Chasin’ the Trane. It didn’t have the same impact as Bachar’s climb, but it was certainly a sign of things to come. Proximity and rhyming aside, this line climbs quite differently from its neighbor, though the climbing is just as good if not better. This is quintessential Frankenjura, with impeccable rock, sinker pockets, and gymnastic climbing on steep terrain.

Begin with a one-move boulder problem to clear the undercut. Find a no-hands rest on the slab(and enough chalk dust to supply the IFSC World Cup circuit), and contemplate the intimidating bulge. Make big spans between deep, complex pockets to reach a detached flake and a strenuous clip. As your power fades, make desperate slaps and stabs over the last bit of the bulge to gain the headwall. Weave between the dihedrals, following pumpy but positive pockets up the headwall to the top.


The right-most line on KT that begins from the ground.


5 bolts to anchor.