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Routes in Ankatalturm

Bar Centrale S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Café Kraft S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fruchtzwerg S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Haumtaucherriss T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: P. Naumann, 1989
Page Views: 27 total · 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 20, 2014
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

This gymnastic line is easily the best line in the Ankatalturm cave. The rock is excellent, and a bit unusual for the Frankenjura, resembling pocketed volcanic stone (like rhyolite) in shape and texture. Despite its length, it ultimately boils down to a four or five move boulder problem to gain the headwall above the steeply undercut start.

Begin atop a large boulder, and make a series of difficult stabs into less-than-sinker two finger pockets. Struggle over the lip, where a few well-earned jugs provide a good shake. Wander up the wall, performing short boulder problems between great rests (including a no-hands, sit down rest on a ledge). The climbing eases as the route ascends, but the cumulative pump keeps it interesting to the end.

Location

On the left side of the cave, this one has a plaque.

Protection

6 bolts to an anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.

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